Djemila - Arabic for 'beautiful' - is a sublimely serene mountain village in the northern African nation of Algeria, where the people greet you with genuine smiles. After wandering through this World Heritage Site's two-millennium-old Berbero-Roman ruins, follow the scent of smoked meat to shops where men make surprisingly succulent skewers of free-range chicken and lamb liver inside before grilling them outdoors, pairing the protein with vegetables spiced with stinging harissa chilli peppers.