Eat Drink KL: December 2022

Saturday, December 31, 2022

Stresso, Bukit Jelutong

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Stresso is a lovely little cafe, run single-handedly by Sara, back in Malaysia after years of living and working in Australia, Switzerland, Germany and Denmark. 

With Harry’s House playing in the morning, Stresso is worth visiting for brunch in Bukit Jelutong - it might sound far off for some of us, but it’s only a 15-minute drive from, say, Taman Mayang in Petaling Jaya. It’s calm and welcoming, with a wide-open first-floor space.

Sara makes her own ricotta for a classic scramble on sourdough, hot and fresh, runny with ricotta, smooth and fluffy with three eggs, salty and peppery - simple but soulful, with heart and a human connection. Soft eggs with toast, charred peppers and greens provide a balanced plate, wholesomely paired with honey kombucha or iced cocoa with oat milk. 

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Stresso
Radia Residence, UG-08 Block A, Bukit Jelutong, 40150 Shah Alam, Selangor.

Friday, December 30, 2022

Tsuki Sushi & Teppanyaki, G Tower

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Two head chefs, two genres of Japanese gastronomy, three rooms in one remarkable restaurant on the 28th floor: Tsuki makes masterful culinary magic in G Tower, with Japanese chef Mitsumasa commanding the sushi bar for omakase experiences, while Malaysian chef Daud heats up the griddle for a unique multi-course teppanyaki meal. 

With majestic views in the heart of the city to partner a marvellous meal through the soul of Japanese cuisine, Tsuki brings together the art of sushi and the craft of teppanyaki for customers to choose. It's worth exploring both, one at a time - follow the starlit cherry blossom passageway into Tsuki's intimate rooms where an evening of sumptuous surprises awaits.

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Our first stop on the Tsuki adventure is the soothing sushi space, spearheaded by Chef Mitsu, honouring the heritage of his homeland with technical skills sharpened over the past 15 years.

The essential sushi course set starts at RM380+ per person, while the regular omakase menu clocks in at RM480+. The premium omakase menu costs RM680+, while the special omakase selection is RM1,380+ (requiring a seven-day preorder).

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We sampled several of the highlights of the regular omakase, from air-flown sashimi to five pieces of nigiri sushi, firm-fleshed and full-bodied, spanning favourites like snapper and sea bass to bonito, botan ebi and chutoro. This seafood is at its seasonal prime as winter reaches its peak, lusciously fatty with a smooth, unrivalled richness. 

While the uni-topped chutoro, engawa, and tuna in two contrasting layers may be the show-stoppers, the kani crab-crowned chawanmushi and the sea urchin 'cholesterol bowl' are stellar too. Seasonal dishes and a hot dish are also served in this menu, concluded with an elaborate dessert that blends Japanese flavours with European techniques. 

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Next door, Chef Daud is in charge of the teppanyaki section. 

The friendly, hard-working chef strives to ensure satisfaction in every sultry course, from top-tier seafood to meat and mushrooms, gorgeously cooked on the griddle.

For the teppanyaki dinner menu, the Tsuki Deluxe Set clocks in at RM588 per person, while the Tsuki Premium Set is RM788 per person. Here, we sampled various highlights from both menus, spanning the sea to the earth, from delightful Hokkaido scallops to decadent foie gras.

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Amadai tilefish, prized for its delicate sweetness, is a star of this menu. Its natural character is enhanced by a short stint in a pot of scalding oil, yielding fantastically flaky, mouthwatering moist flesh, coated in spiky, crackly skin. It's served with sea urchin sauce to convey the flavour of the ocean, sprayed with edible gold dust for a striking flourish on a wabi-sabi plate.

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The teppanyaki sets also spotlight irresistible temptations like Hyogo oyster with caviar, black abalone with seaweed sauce, Miyazaki A5 wagyu chateaubriand, coral reef lobster, wagyu beef with black truffle sauce, seasonal vegetables, and seafood yakimeshi - Tsuki does justice to each course, harnessing the teppan heat to infuse the right smokiness and sultriness without overpowering the purity of the produce, a testament to the precise techniques here.

With seasonal premium fresh fruits to send us into the night, comprising Japanese muscat grapes and persimmon, Tsuki has made its mark as one of 2022's most engaging new choices for Japanese fare.

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Tsuki
Level 28, G Tower, Kuala Lumpur, 50400 Kuala Lumpur.

Lunch: 12:30pm-2:30pm

Dinner: 6pm-8pm (Session 1), 8:30pm-10:30pm (Session 2).

Tel: 019-9997878

Reservations:

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Baba Ho Liao: Returning to TTDI's bastion of Malaccan Nyonya cuisine

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Two years ago, we popped into TTDI's then-new Baba Ho Liao for a delicious dinner of ayam buah keluak and itik tim.

Baba Ho Liao has now made a mark as this neighbourhood's prime purveyor of Malaccan Peranakan cuisine, serving up a cookbook's worth of authentic Nyonya recipes.

From munch-worthy pai tee to time-honoured udang goreng asam, this generations-old gastronomic heritage remains alive and well at Baba Ho Liao, beckoning us to return for another soulful meal.

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Crafts and artwork pay tribute to Baba Nyonya designs, bringing a bit of Malaccan-born beauty to this spacious, casual restaurant.


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The quintessential snack to start with: Pai Tee (RM33), those irresistibly crispy top hats, fresh-fried and served with a hot, hearty pot brimming with braised julienned turnips, eggs, prawns, plus house-made chilli sauce for extra spice. An addictive appetiser to share.

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Diving right into the main courses, the kitchen surfaces with the Lemak Nanas Fish (market price), typically showcasing ikan selangin (fourfinger threadfin, pictured), jenahak (snapper) or grouper, moist and fleshy, perfect in sweetly tangy, santan-enriched pineapple curry sauce.

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We'll never say no to Ayam Buah Keluak (RM37), one of our favourite Malaccan staples, cherished in Peranakan and Kristang households. Chunks of chicken, tenderly cooked in house-ground chilli paste, generously showered with Indonesian black nuts with a flavourful, fermented filling of flesh, laced with minced prawns and chicken. Consistent from the beginning, Baba Ho Liao continues to do justice to this tamarind-tinged treat, rich and robust.

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Baba Ho Liao's Mutton Curry (RM35) tastes lovingly homemade, prepared with true Malaccan curry powder, an aromatically sumptuous base for alluringly succulent meat.

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Baba Ho Liao's Prawns Goreng Asam (market price) also hit the spot - while most asam sauce in KL is saturated with sugar and salt, this one harnesses pure asam jawa sourced from Malacca for a potent piquancy, beautifully balanced with ginger juice and tamarind to enliven the plump, juicy prawns. 

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The Otak Otak (RM19) is also a moreish marvel, relying on fresh tenggiri for the fish paste, tasting full-bodied with no unnecessary fillers, scattered with sliced onions and chillies.

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For vegetables, we can't go wrong with the Bendi Ulam (RM19), gorgeous okra blanched in salt water, meticulously topped with shallots, chillies, lime juice and pounded dried shrimp. 

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For dessert, we must have the Cendol (RM7.90) of course, another Malaccan original that's rejuvenating with shaved ice, swimming in fresh coconut milk, poured over with gula Melaka.

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Complement your meal with seasonal beverages like the Umbra Kedondong (RM11.90), a cold-pressed juice with a pleasantly sour kick.

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Fun fact: Baba Ho Liao's care and conscientiousness can be seen even behind the scenes, extending to its powerful dishwasher that ensures impeccable cleanliness.

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Baba Ho Liao
129, Jalan Aminuddin Baki, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur. 
Daily, 11:30am-3pm, 5pm-9:30pm. Tel: 03-7731-6122