What happens when a Muar-born Malaysian who spent seven years working in a vibrant Southeast Asian restaurant in Melbourne finally opens his own venue in the Klang Valley?
The result is a remarkable Thai restaurant that reimagines tradition with modern moxie.
Now into its second year since launching in May 2023, M Dining in Damansara Uptown playfully pushes the horizons of culinary imagination, propelled by chef-founder Wilson Teh's passionate preparation and presentation.
Wilson has been a chef for more than two decades, most notably sharpening his skills in Melbourne's Longrain on Little Bourke Street since 2014.
Evoking the ethos of Longrain, M Dining infuses cross-cultural, contemporary influences to reinterpret and reinvigorate classic Thai flavours.
Surprises are sprinkled throughout the pork-free menu, from crustacean sliders to scallop snacks that make over mieng kam, from a robust rendition of panang lamb curry with 20 herbs and spices to a Thai pad kra pow take on Korean chicken bibimbap.
Sauces are crafted from scratch in M Dining's kitchen, carefully calibrated to ensure the natural essence of the produce shines, such as sumptuous cod fish and seasonal mushrooms in tom kha broth.
Tucked on the first floor, M Dining is a cheerful, casually comfortable retreat from Damansara Uptown's bustle, spacious and soothing with rattan wood hues and leafy tones. Private rooms are available, including with a view of the kitchen.
Start with a scrumptious snack: M Dining's Crab Delight Sliders (RM18 per piece) have become a signature, with soft-shell crabs sandwiched in buns with tom yum mayo dressing.
The sliders surface in striking fashion, with captivatingly crackly crabs served whole, layered in pillowy bread, enlivened with a lip-smacking sauce that synergises the familiar sweet-sour notes of tom yum with a subtle spicy finish. A crowd-pleaser for all generations.
The Scallop Betel Leaf Delight (RM12 per piece) is another M Dining must-have, restyling the staple of mieng kam with a seafood flourish.
Betel leaves are mounted with Canadian scallops, crowned with coconut and chilli jam. Simply fold the ensemble and savour everything together - it's a mouthwatering medley, complex with richness from land and sea, uplifted by a herbaceous tropical zest.
Panang Lamb Curry Pleasures (RM75 for a small portion, RM138 large) lives up to its name: Alluringly aromatic, the Australian lamb shank is immersed in thick Thai red curry with apple eggplant, potatoes and peanuts, customisable in spice levels of mild, medium or fiery.
The triumph is in the technique: The lamb is slow-braised at boiling point over five hours for super-succulent meat that's achingly addictive. A blissful chew for red-meat carnivores.
The curry is lusciously creamy and silky with 20 herbs and spices, nutty and earthy, tangy with lime, complementing the lamb with irresistible intensity.
Cod & Mushroom Tom Kha Euphoria (RM168) offers ecstasy for fans of fish: A 200-gram cod fillet, clean-tasting with a fresh, flaky texture, soaking up the creamy tom kha coconut broth that's fragrantly full-bodied with fish stock, curry paste, galangal and kaffir lime leaves, rounded out with seasonal mushrooms such as shimeji and crispy enoki. Elaborately elegant.
For hearty comfort with soulful heat, try the Thai-Korean Basil Chicken Bibimbap (RM35), bringing together pad kra pow and bibimbap, sizzling and steaming with a blanket of chicken and basil, cushioned by a sunny-side-up egg and rice, underpinned by a crusty hot-stone char. Harmonising influences from across Asia, it's a recipe that regulars return for repeatedly.
Finish with a soft, sweet sensation: The Tub Tim Krop Reimagined (RM17) showcases M Dining's own-recipe coconut ice cream, smoothly dense and milky, complete with water chestnuts and jackfruit, jazzing up the conventional Thai red ruby dessert with cooling charm.
For young-at-heart fun, many tables order the Teddy Bear Thai Milk Tea and Teddy Bear Thai Green Milk Tea (RM12), made from top to bottom with milk tea sourced straight from Thailand. Cute milk tea ice bears sit atop the drinks, melting slowly for consistent flavour.
To combat the heat and humidity, M Dining recommends Coconut Pandan Water (RM12) and Butterfly Pea Flower Tea (RM12), harnessing regional herbs for chilled rejuvenation.
M Dining
105M, Jalan SS 21/37, Damansara Utama, 47400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Daily, 1130am-3pm, 5:30pm-10pm.
Tel: 016-760-1038
