Eat Drink KL: Millesime

Saturday, January 21, 2012


Returning to Millesime. It's been far too long.
Earlier entries on Millesime: Oct. 18, 2010, Oct. 20, 2010 & Oct. 22, 2010.

Millesime has been spruced up a bit since 2010, with more furnishing & a patio-like dining area. It's a real sanctuary of elegance, perhaps the best-looking eatery at Solaris Dutamas.

Since one of Chef Max Chin's favorite ingredients seems to be cecina _ Spanish air-dried beef _ it was no surprise to have it wrapped snugly around artichoke for an invigorating amuse bouche, alongside a creamy-soft slice of chicken flam.

Mille feuille of octopus carpaccio with avocado mash & a tian of Pacific crab meat, mizuna greens & saffron aioli. Full-bodied flavors from the sea, intertwined with soil-bound, herbaceous notes for a richly complex starter.

Poele of foie gras on Pedro Ximenez sherried apple soubise with caramelized sweetbread & shaved fennel with port wine jus. Goose liver with veal pancreas? Excellent.

Hokkaido sea scallops with wine-braised beef cheeks, cumin-flavored carrot puree & red wine demi-glace. The firm, fleshy chew of the scallops & beef worked wonderfully together, with the meat supplying the bulk of the flavor.

Palate cleanser of passion fruit sorbet.

Tian of lamb loin & braised red cabbage with celeriac mousseline, puy lentils & thyme reduction. Max might not be cooking every night here these days, but he still oversees the menu, confidently executed by his right-hand man, Patrick.

Baked French Valrhona bittersweet chocolate brick with rum-macerated seasonal berries & vanilla ice cream. Note: the cost of the set dinner here now starts at RM220++ per person without wine, compared to RM150++ in 2010. Inflation catches up with the best of us.

With maitre d' Albert at the helm, the ideal bottle can always be found.

Solaris Dutamas, Kuala Lumpur.
Closed Sundays.