Monday, October 18, 2010

Millesime

After succumbing to a memorable meal filled with thoughtfully assembled ingredients, it seems safe to say this: Millesime is one of 2010's best new restaurants.

Even for everyone who's been eating Max Chin's food since his time at Tengkat Tong Shin, there are still surprises to be found in his culinary bag of tricks. Millesime feels like a natural evolution for this earnest, enthusiastic chef _ it's the perfect place for potential new admirers to make the acquaintance of his prowess in the (wide-open) kitchen.

The advance media publicity has already made one fact famous: there's no a la carte menu here. Customers place their faith in Max to craft set meals based on what he believes to be the best produce on any given day.

Succulent slices of seared tuna loin with chopped clams & organic sesame oil. This amuse bouche left us wanting more; we'd gladly gobble up a main course composed entirely of this.

Warm salad of halibut, avocado, artichokes & raspberry vinaigrette. Halibut recipes can sometimes be bland, but every bite of this really whetted our appetite; moist, delicate fish drizzled lightly with tangy oil & vinegar, working magic with creamy avocados.

Gratinated & blow-torched scallops with salmon roe, truffle oil, piquillo pepper coulis & chive cream. The scallops were sliced fairly thin, but somehow remained impossibly luscious, with a subtle smokiness and unexpected earthiness. Loved the interplay of tastes and textures.

Dijon mustard-glazed duck breast with duck liver terrine & sweetbread. Perfection on a plate; the bacon-like savoriness of the duck meat, the buttery decadence of the liver, the squishy juiciness of the sweetbread _ they even smelled spectacular together!

Air-dried Spanish beef with potato strudel & mushroom melange (comprising chanterelles, button mushrooms & shimeji). My favorite for the evening, thanks to the bold, robust taste and intensely rich, firm texture of the beef slices.

Smoked chicken with poached farm egg, asparagus & potato & leek sauce. Can't go wrong when an immaculately runny egg yolk is flowing all over the dish; we might not have loved the relatively ordinary-tasting chicken, but we still finished every spoonful.

Lamb cutlet with fig jam, zucchini & gorgonzola ravioli. One of the miracles of Max's cooking here is how nearly every element in nearly every dish combines forces for a sum that truly is greater than its parts; terrifically tender lamb, pleasantly tart jam, inimitably salty cheese _ a harmonious symphony of flavors to rouse jaded taste buds.

U.S. beef escalope with gratinated pesto & parmesan, gnocchi & tomato coulis. A stab at something that would fit in seamlessly at Italian restaurants. Melt-in-the-mouth meat, but the gnocchi could've been fluffier and lower in sodium _ a matter of personal preference.

Thyme-scented yogurt ice cream with poached pears & assorted fruits. A refreshingly cold and sweet finish to a four-hour feast.

Lawson's Dry Hills Pinot Noir (2007; Marlborough, New Zealand). Whiffs of cherry and chocolate in a very drinkable wine with soft tannins.

Kaesler Stonehorse Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvedre (2007; Barossa Valley). A more complex wine with notable length and tolerable acidity. Well-matched with the later courses.

One last note: Millesime's look is marvelous. The wild, wicked crimson of a sensual boudoir, merged with the moody, metallic sophistication of the Centre Pompidou. Or something like that.


Millesime,
Ground Floor, Menara Kencana Petroleum,
Solaris Dutamas, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 6211-0648
Closed most Sundays.
Check out EAT DRINK, a new F&B website jointly run by The Expat Group (TEG) & Eat Drink KL. This website features all of our up-to-date reviews, plus exclusive weekly articles & a searchable database on restaurants in KL & Selangor: EatDrink.my

31 comments:

  1. Ah, those signature red plates of his. Am looking fwd to dining here. Max's food is always superb stuff. Never tire of his food.

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  2. boo: oh yeah, i have a feeling we'll all end up bumping into each other here sooner or later. his new location is super-convenient for most of us now! :D

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  3. Average price for the set menu?The interior look contemporary yet with some mystery feel XD

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  4. looking for a venue for celebration, will this be it? :D hows the price like?

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  5. as usual you beat me to it. so jealous!!! why?!!!

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  6. I agree- one of the best meals this year and gr8 co. to boot! 5 hours passed like.. err, 5 minutes? LOL.. Let's go again Sean.. w8 a minute.. i AM going again.. yay;)

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  7. Fui: oh, it kinda depends on how many courses u have. probably about rm100++ for 3 courses (not including wine), though lunch sets should be cheaper, I guess. We should know more once the place fully opens this week...
    Augustdiners: would be a great place for a celebration, for sure! I think it's safe to budget about rm200++ per person, including wines, but u can always let max know what your price concerns would be in advance
    Eiling: ahh, no worries, u'll definitely be here very soon too! And hopefully frequent enough that we'll bump into each other sometime :D
    Ciki: time does seem to speed up at this restaurant ... It's like entering a magic cave! I'm betting that your upcoming dinner will be even more awesome! I wish I had a celebratory dinner soon, so I could plan one here! :D

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  8. Do you get to choose how many courses you want? Can't wait to go.

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  9. Looks gooooooood... :) :) :)

    When r u n Ciki going again - I oso want to makannnnnn

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  10. Baby sumo: seems possible for now (though I'm not sure how flexible it'll be on busy nights). 3-5 courses seem to be the norm, but it'll be up to max to tell us what the minimum is... Or the, ahem, max-imum :D
    J: Ciki's returning very, very soon for a celebratory dinner with a special someone. Maybe the rest of us should organize something here for ourselves too, huh. I wanna come back here soon too, really! :D

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  11. Oh my..you're literally "gushing" abt the dishes..
    Must be really good ;)

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  12. tng: the air-dried beef was one of my top 10 favorite dishes i've had in kl this week (and the duck-&-sweetbread would probably be in the top 20!) :D

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  13. How many restaurants does he own? I tried Max's Kitchen before but that was a long time ago. Felt that it was alright.

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  14. michelle: heheh, he operates one at a time ... max kitchen was the first, then he closed that one and moved on to max@ihaus at imbi ... and now he's left that and opened this...

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  15. Yeah.. I was just telling Jenn about this restaurant & the chef that were featured in The Star's writeup not long ago.
    Another place... (of all the long list that I still have yet to go.. lol!) for me to visit!

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  16. leo: try this place for a leisurely saturday lunch sometime (though not sunday, since it's usually closed on that day) :D

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  17. Wow - did u eat all those dishes?! Yes, they do look good and if you're singing lyrical about them, then they must be truly excellent!

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  18. pureglutton: oh yeah, we each had our own portion of every dish. it was supposed to be five courses only, but we ended up wanting more, more, more! :D

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  19. Chef Max seems to have delivered another resounding success judging by your review! Ok, must head there once I am back in KL. :)

    P.S. Gosh, I didn't realise how long I have been away from blogging till I noticed the number of unread Eat Drink KL posts on my RSS reader... 14! That's half a month! :P

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  20. We have dined this way before when he's still at Tengkat Tong Shin :p Hubby just told him what he don't eat and Max surprises us! Can't wait to try this place

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  21. lfb: oh yeah, maybe u could eat here to celebrate your return to the big city! though i guess sanuki would be the sentimental choice :D p.s. yep, it was a pleasant surprise to suddenly see your comment here. and then your 13 other comments too :P
    babe_kl: i'm hoping that max will still be able to whip up special surprises even when the place gets packed! :D

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  22. Why not? Would be a great to celebrate coming to my fave city (home to my fave nasi lemak), haha.

    P.S. Yes well, it's not my fault you are so prolific... :P

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  23. And I read about this recently. In the papers I believe. How Max has continued to impress with a new venture now.

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  24. I bet you must be holding your breath or keeping your fingers crossed for this dinner not to fail your expectations eh? I mean I would. I'm so glad that it rocks and the places looks splendid. Looking forward to celebrating a good occasion here soon.

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  25. lfb: yikes, the bad news is it'll cost more than an udon or nasi lemak meal though. i just returned here today, and their monday set dinner was priced at RM150. p.s. isn't it comforting to know that when u wake up each morning, the sun will be there ... and so will a new entry on "eat drink kl" :D
    j2kfm: yeah, this is one of those rare restaurants that managed to acquire some buzz BEFORE it even opened!
    qwazymonkey: my expectations were exceeded, which only occasionally occurs! i think this will prove to be a great alternative to hotel restaurants like sage and cilantro :D

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  26. Hahaha... I think Eat Drink KL may well be more consistent the rising sun... May EDKL never set though! :)

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  27. lfb: ahh, but since all things come to an end, so too will our blogs eventually. i'll most likely bite the dust before you do. hmmm, catchy though ... 'life for beginners' bites the dust. :D

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  28. Hi Sean
    I finally made it there last night. Unfortunately Max wasn't around...Still an enjoyable experience and bumped into Boo as well :)

    Thanks again for pointing out all the great finds at Solaris!

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  29. Yin: ohh, wonder what happened to max on a Friday nite. Glad u still had a good dinner though. It's interesting how solaris dutamas is only a year old, but it has some of the city's best restaurants. Hope to bump into u there sometime too! :D

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  30. Hi
    I think Max was in Vietnam...can't remember for what though ;) How would I recognize you at Solaris - would you have a red rose on you :P

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  31. yin: ahhh, u have a point! i guess we should arrange to meet up sometime. let's make it a new year resolution for 2011! :D

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