Playte brings exciting elements to the table: The clear-eyed skills of young Malaysian chefs with something fresh to offer. The imaginative use of regional produce, from belimbing to bamboo shoots, Bario rice to Vadouvan spices, to create recipes of ambition and adventure. The conviction to showcase these progressive efforts in a casual space at accessible prices.
Slated to launch August 6 in Damansara Heights' new Republik F&B enclave, Playte is our introduction to culinary talents Brendon Chen, Kae Huey and Sharina Aidid, who first met while studying in Le Cordon Bleu six years ago. They've collaborated together and apart since then - Brendon, for example, has staged at Taipei's Mume (ranked seventh this year on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants) and honed his craft at KL's own Nadodi (which CNN recently described as potentially being the world's next great Indian restaurant) - but Playte marks the formal union of their capabilities.
Dish after dish, Playte bowled us over with this preview of its dinnertime selection, confidently corralling diverse ingredients into distinctive ensembles with irrepressible flavours.
The Raw selection conveys sheer vibrancy - snapper is lightly cured with soy, lusciously fleshy with an umami undertone, sliced with shredded daikon slid in for juiciness, tempered by a tangy-sweet tamarind and raisin puree, a little earthy with brown butter dressing and a bit briny with wakame powder, yielding an array of elegant notes that add up to a full-bodied symphony (RM28).
Playte's reinterpretation of steak tartare is equally enticing - morsels of Australian grass-fed beef mingle with everything from pickled ginger to preserved radish, plus a preserved tofu dressing, five-spice powder and garlic chips, not merely representing East Asia but more specifically the nuances of a classic congee, seamlessly and surprisingly transplanted from boiled rice to diced meat, broadening the horizons of a contemporary kitchen's creativity (RM37).
Fans of comfort fare should order the maitake mushrooms, made indulgent with pillowy potato foam and crackly potato chips, herbaceously laced with droplets of rosemary oil, rounded out with a soothing mushroom broth to nurse the broken spirit (RM28) - take a bite, have a sip; before you know it, the bowls will be empty but your heart should feel full.
Playte's offerings are constructed for communal sharing, though degustation menus of between five to seven courses are also being planned.
For the best seats in the house, take a spot at the counter to catch all the action in the open kitchen, as the hard-labouring brigade assembles a steak to sink your teeth into - wagyu rump cap partnered with salt-baked sengkuang for a memorable Peranakan crunch, laksa leaves, fried okra, shiitake mushrooms and watercress puree (RM72) - and poultry to pleasure your palate - a two-textured duet of chicken leg and breast, poached then finished off in the pan, enriched with the butteriness of Shaoxing wine-infused clam beurre blanc, completed with braised daikon, deep-fried kailan and parsley oil, inspired by Shaoxing's own drunken chicken, with modern, internationally informed sensibilities (RM43).
There's still much more on the evening menu to explore - raw mackerel with belimbing, pomelo, pickled cucumber, fried broccoli, dill oil and calamansi dressing; prawns with prawn head sauce, charred leeks, house-made noodles and sambal; quail with Bario rice, Vadouvan spices and burnt eggplant puree.
All in all, Playte is one of 2019's most promising new restaurants, bursting with deliciously executed ideas. Many thanks to the team here for this preview.
G 0.1, Ground Floor, Republik, Jalan Medan Setia, Bukit Damansara, Damansara Heights, 50490 Kuala Lumpur.
Eggy (Open everyday) 11am-3pm
Playte (Closed Tuesdays only) 6:30pm-10pm
This post first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com