Strato Italian Restaurant @ Troika Sky Dining

Returning to Strato for more mouthwatering Italian marvels. Earlier entry on Strato: Feb. 18.

A revised 'vitello tonnato' illustrates how Strato carves out distinctive recipes; this comprises brine-cured rare beef instead of veal, with not only tuna-anchovy sauce & deep-fried capers but chopped raisins too, for an interesting sweet-savoriness.

Salads seldom seem as satisfying as this big bowl of chunky-crunchy bread, pickled anchovies & parmesan (RM25++), currently the cheapest choice on Strato's menu.

Lovely interpretation of the Caprese salad (RM45++), with creamy buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes roasted on the vine, pickled cherry tomatoes, pesto & lemon cream.

Sausage, fennel, caramelized onions & stewed mushrooms. Rustic roots for a recipe to relish.

Gotta get gnocchi (RM45++), fairly fluffy ones, filled out on this ethereally pale plate with gorgonzola & pickled walnuts.

Squid ink linguine with prawns, artichoke cream & fried artichokes. Pasta perfection.

Vegetarians might have a field day at Strato: Meatless selections include the garganelli with tomatoes, basil, rocket, roast onions & toasted pine nuts (RM45++) ...

... & the pappardelle with pure tomato bolognese, as fresh as we could conceivably want it.

Desserts are limited here but no less enticing: Try the banana-coffee tiramisu (RM25++) ...

... or the rice pudding (RM30++), accompanied by a trio of nutty-fruity-honeyed trimmings.

All in all, Strato makes an excellent companion restaurant to Cantaloupe at Troika Sky Dining.

Strato Italian Restaurant,

Level 23A, Troika Sky Dining,

The Troika, Persiaran KLCC, Lorong Binjai, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2162-0886

Estilo & Zender's @ Publika, Solaris Dutamas

Testing out two eateries with European accents: Estilo, Publika's first Spanish restaurant, & Zender's, where French & Mediterranean cooking calls the shots.

Launched this month, Estilo is the sister outlet of El Meson at Telawi, but there's a potentially polarizing restriction that sets this apart from the Bangsar branch: no suckling pig, Parma ham, Iberico pork ribs or the slightest smidgen of swine will be found here.

Still, Estilo will whip up plenty to please fans of tapas, like melt-in-the-mouth potatoes brimming with crab meat & cheese in fresh tomato sauce.

Estilo's complete menu was not offered when we visited, but El Meson favorites such as paella, suckling lamb & crispy-cheesy croquettes should be available soon. 

Cocktails will come eventually too. Note as well that Estilo might not currently be open for lunch; full operations will commence later this week.

Estilo is located at Publika's open square, neighboring Silver Spoon & The Social.

Next up: Zender's, hidden above Wagaya (the former Ten) at Solaris Dutamas' rearmost blocks.

We retreated into Zender's air-conditioned comfort on a muggy night, but the restaurant also features an alfresco balcony with distant views of KL's best-known towers.

Foie gras is rarer than Frenchmen at Solaris Dutamas, so Zender's is a welcome entry. Two hefty chunks come at a bargain, RM48++ with port wine sauce & prunes.

Zender's kitchen stays open past midnight, later than other Solaris hangouts; supper seekers can head here to savor duck confit (RM48++), substantially meaty but significantly chewy. Love the fruit compote on the side, nevertheless.

Other offerings include everything from an OK Greek salad (RM16++) to a parade of pastas. Sure, Zender's isn't the most innovative restaurant around, but its chef, Eric, is an enthusiastic chap who's clearly trying hard; we hope this place does well.

The sweets list is short; the creamy avocado cheesecake (RM15++) is the main attraction, alongside fruity favorites like raspberry creme brulee & mango tiramisu.

Merlot by the glass clocks in at RM22++; the Gold Margarita (RM23++) is a pleasantly potent combination of Jose Cuervo Gold, Grand Marnier & mango puree.

Estilo @ Publika, Solaris Dutamas, Kuala Lumpur.
Zender's Restaurant & Bar @ D5-G4-06, Solaris Dutamas, Kuala Lumpur.

Coffee Planet @ Petronas Tower 3

Spreading its wings to Southeast Asia, Dubai-based caffeine specialist Coffee Planet has launched a sixth-floor cafe with a view at Petronas Tower Three.

Coffee Planet begins orbiting the tower's Sky Lobby at 7am weekdays; breakfast platters cost RM12.50, but folks who order coffee enjoy a 50 percent discount. Scrambled eggs, sausage, baked beans, bread, butter & jam for only RM6.25.

Scones, laced with lots of pieces of cranberries. Only RM3.25 (with the coffee discount).

Warm, juicy wraps of piri-piri chicken & corn. Actually addictive.

Coffee Planet's menu is a mishmash of cross-continental sensibilities, which explains this briyani-like rice platter with tender beef & potatoes.

Try the cheesecake, more sumptuously creamy than expected, lightly sprinkled with pistachios.

Coffee's not half-bad, made with Arabica beans. Not KL's best, but OK.

Coffee art & other presentation points need more work, sure.

Iced lemon tea comes complimentary with main courses.

Coffee Planet opens weekdays through 7pm.

Coffee Planet,

Sky Lobby, Level 6, Petronas Tower 3, Kuala Lumpur.

Maruhi Sakaba @ Faber Plaza, Taman Desa

Maruhi Sakaba: Round Two. Earlier entry: March 4.

Stick 'em up!  We'll happily hand over hard-earned cash for skewers of pork belly, shoulder & tongue (RM4 each) ...

... as well as tantalizingly juicy "tsukune" minced meat (RM7) & meat-wrapped shimeji & enoki mushrooms (RM5).

Chicken gizzard & liver (RM4). Sure, it's spelled 'lever' on the menu, but never mind.

Fatty chicken skin & tail meat (RM4), with dips that pack a flavorsome punch.

One-bowl meals are also available. Rice topped with fresh kampung egg might help us recuperate from tedious, tiresome time at the office.

A special for folks who adore chicken skin: Savor it all sliced up & served on its own on a substantial platter with a light ponzu sauce (RM5).

Need crisp veggies to pair with the protein? Leek, okra & eggplant "kushi" skewers are worth nibbling, as well as fresh salad sticks of celery, cucumber & carrots.

"One-cup sake" seems cool & convenient. Ume liquor tastes refreshing too.

Maruhi Sakaba,

6A, Faber Plaza, Jalan Desa Jaya, Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur.

Open 6pm-11pm, except Mondays.