Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Cantaloupe @ Troika Sky Dining

Returning to Troika Sky Dining's Cantaloupe. Earlier entry: January 2.

Smoked duck wafer with raspberry coulis & maple syrup foam, a knockout of a sweet-sour-salty amuse bouche that wallops the taste buds in a wondrous way.

Oyster recipes have been Cantaloupe exec chef Chris Bauer's forte since his time at Frangipani; these Fine de Claire ones with marinated anchovy cream boast a luscious brininess, surprisingly paired with the vegetarian-pleasing flavor of cucumber jelly & Japanese cucumber.

Chorizo-dusted scallop with caramelized onions, wild seasonal mushrooms, parsley foam & ancho chili oil. At RM75++, this starter signals that meals at Cantaloupe won't come cheap, but the sum total of the food, setting & service here makes the cost feel worthwhile.

One for fans of fowl: a thick, creamy slab of 24-hour-cooked pigeon, chicken & foie gras terrine, with pigeon jus ganache, Waldorf salad & roasted chestnuts (RM85++).

Lobster bisque with rosemary herb foam & tomato jelly. An experimental concoction, not formally on the menu so far, but it more than deserves to be.

One of Cantaloupe mastermind Eddie Chew's favorites: Peekytoe crab & toasted oat "carbonara," with applewood-smoked duck breast, winter truffles & Brussels sprout leaves.

Pan-roasted gurnard (RM85++), topping a croquette that bursts open with savory bouillabaisse, accompanied by olives, ratatouille & red wine sauce.

Noisette butter-poached Nova Scotia lobster (RM95++) with (deep breath!) globe artichokes, heirloom carrots, New Zealand spinach, crisp-fried beef tendon & green chartreuse emulsion.

A bovine brotherhood, flooded with sink-your-teeth-into-this flavor, offering complementary textures, one cheeky, the other steakish: pot-au-feu beef cheek terrine with warm beef jelly & 'japonaise' sauce, plus roasted Wagyu sirloin pave. RM145++.

Tea-infused ice cubes with kaffir lime foam. Even the palate cleansers here are ingenious.

Keeping the doctor away: Apple crumble with apple juice sphere, poached & dried green apples, cinnamon & aniseed milk foam, with burnt butter ice cream (RM45++).

Off-menu, but this could be the most pleasurable dessert we've had so far in 2013: Roast pineapples with egg pina colada cream, coconut sorbet, Szechuan pepper foam & candied nuts. Beautiful flavors, this is the one we'll remember best from this meal.

Evidence that chocolate sometimes truly is better than sex: Guanaja choc ganache with crisp meringue, plus Manjari choc aerobar with mint meringue 'flottante.'

As folks begin to flock to Cantaloupe, the bar has been raised high for other fine-dining restaurants that'll open this year. We look forward to further enthralling expeditions here.

Next up for Troika Sky Dining: Italian kitchen Strato, expected by month's end, & possibly an Argentinean alfresco asado-style outlet in mid-2013.


Cantaloupe @ Troika Sky Dining,
Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC, Lorong Binjai, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2162-0886
Check out EAT DRINK, a new F&B website jointly run by The Expat Group (TEG) & Eat Drink KL. This website features all of our up-to-date reviews, plus exclusive weekly articles & a searchable database on restaurants in KL & Selangor: EatDrink.my

41 comments:

  1. Views look awesome. I'm wondering if it's a classic case of small portions and big prices?

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    1. The Yum List: the ambiance here sure is something else :D heheh, i guess a lot of hard work went into creating these recipes, and they're using some top-notch ingredients, so all in all, i think the final cost was fair :D

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  2. Beautiful place, nice views! Oysters? Hmmm...no, thanks....but oooo...the scallops look reslly good!

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    1. Suituapui: yeah, a lot of care apparently went into cultivating the look of this place, and it was worth the wait! :D heheh, okie, no raw oysters for you, will pass you the well-cooked scallops =)

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  3. I think I'll pass on Cantaloupe...too costly for me...but looking forward to the Argentinian asado-style alfresco resto...hopefully prices won't be too prohibitive...hehe =)

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    1. Ulric: yeah, it's definitely scary when the cost of a three-course meal exceeds RM200. am looking forward to the italian restaurant since i love italian food, but ya, the argentinean one will certainly be interesting! :D

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  4. That sounds extraordinary. Chef Chris is a magician - I never forget his chocolate dessert at Fraginpani..food of the gods!

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    1. YouHadYourLunch: one of the best chefs living in KL! we're really lucky to have him here. and he works miracles with the chocolate dessert here at cantaloupe too :D

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  5. OMGosh! the prices @________@, let me dig into my piggy bank now! The food looks absolutely divine!! Im absolutely thrill to try it!!

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    1. AugustDiners: yeah, sky-high prices to match the sky-high setting. i definitely need to save up for my next meal here. but yeah, if you can recall liking the food at frangipani, then you'd like the food here too :D

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  6. wow that is really a nice beautiful night view..
    the scallops is really good..

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    1. Simple Person: ya, the view here captures some of the best angles of the city skyline :D heheh, sounds like a lot of people are fans of scallops here! =)

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  7. That's a nice looking scallop! I'd been trying to pan-sear my own scallops at home but dozens of ringgit of (frozen) scallops later I still can't sear one to save my life, lol!

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    1. Timing: heheh, practice makes perfect, rite! it might just take one or two more dozen of scallops for you to master the art of searing them! good luck, ya =)

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  8. i have no idea pigeon can be eaten?

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    1. Fadyxc: oh ya, the chinese are fans of pigeons, and so are the french :D

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  9. Everything is breathtaking. From the view to the food..

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    1. Sycookies: yeah, a real feast for all the senses! :D

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  10. The price is a bit steep, hmm need to find a special ocassion to visit. :P

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    1. CK: maybe if somebody's birthday is coming ... Heheh =)

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  11. Amazing..I have never been to Frangipani and this Chris Bauer sounds like a genius.. I wonder who can I drag to dine with me here. No one with such deep pockets.. LOL!

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    1. Rebecca: oooo, cross your fingers that maybe there'll be degustation dinners or special events held here sometime this year that might be budget-appropriate, heheh =)

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  12. Seems like they like the use of foam here. Nearly every one of your dishes has foam of some kind!

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    1. Drops Of Contentment: you're sharp-eyed! but yeah, the foams here are fun! everything from maple syrup foam to szechuan pepper foam. adds interesting texture to the dishes, heh :D

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  13. Broke the bank with this meal, but I felt it was worth every cent paid. Top notch food, and easily top 3 in KL right now. I was mesmerized by the view. My favourite dishes were the lobster bisque and the wagyu sirloin with cheek.

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    1. Lemongrass: ooo, too bad we missed bumping into each other here, but i'm glad you enjoyed your meal. top three sounds like a good evaluation, and yeah, even though the price does sting, i do think that cantaloupe would be a place i'd very much want to return to :D

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  14. hehe I wouldn't mind having that apple crumble dish everyday!!!! well, it's good for health, isn't it?? :P

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    1. Vien: heheh, an apple crumble a day does sound more delicious than an apple a day! :D

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  15. Would certainly like to come here for a romantic dinner ;)

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    1. Baby Sumo: it's a good place for that! and i'm sure hubby will take the hint very soon (maybe for valentine's?) :D

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  16. that smoked duck wafer looked like love letter for a second. Love the way those oysters and scallops looked too, must be damn yums

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    1. KY: heheh, ya, presentation for the dishes here rock! there were two oysters on that plate, but i wish there were six! they were really good :D

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  17. Beautiful pieces there! I was wowed the moment I saw the oysters and scallop. Reading further, I am mesmerized!

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    1. Missyblurkit: ya, from start to finish, this does rank as a meal to remember! :D

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  18. great oyster shot - u nailed it! Now I feel like oysters for lunch.. with champagne! :D

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    1. Ciki: thanks! i can never get enough of good oysters (or of good champagne either!). hope you had a bubbly lunch =)

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  19. Wow! I wonder if they are kind enough to introduce me dishes without alcohol in the ingredient... Been looking for a place to surprise my hubby and this looks like a perfection...

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    1. Vegemonster: yes, i think there are several dishes here without alcohol in the recipe =)

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  20. why every food has the foam on top? what is it?

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  21. Any recommendation on table seating to get the best view of the twin towers?

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