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The Kaki Shio is richly structured: Noodles cut to a 1.4mm width at medium hydration, holding their springy bite while carrying the briny broth, a semi-creamy slow simmer of golden sea bream and chicken bones, kombu and shiitake mushrooms, enriched with blended oyster meat, finished with shio tare, katsuobushi and niboshi oil, topped with poached oyster, chicken and house-aged tai fish ‘cha siu.’ With that extent of care and effort, this is ramen to remember.