Brunch enthusiasts have been flocking to Chow Kit's captivating Rise & Shine by Tapestry - but now, this space can finally be savoured past sunset, when it takes on a dreamy, dramatic glow in the beautifully lit dark. Tapestry Dining's exemplary evening menu sources sustainable ingredients from local farmers and fishermen for culinary creations that can be traced to their roots.
Dinner at Tapestry is all about soulful, heartwarming cooking, fuelled by fresh, flavour-packed produce.
Start with the seasonal fibre, confidently prepared for full-bodied textures: A vibrant bumper crop of vivid-hued, Kelantan-cultivated vegetables from Gua Musang yields everything from carrots to capsicum, Chinese broccoli to courgettes, their earthiness enhanced by an understated char, retaining their rich crunch with a cardamom yogurt dip for extra punch (RM28).
From Pahang's village of Janda Baik, the purple and white corn should easily harvest the entire table's endorsement, buoyed by a bite that's naturally sweet and nourishingly juicy, made crisp with a scattering of dehydrated sweet potato skin and creamy with subtly spicy sambal-spiked aioli (RM32).
Tapestry's kitchen moves effortlessly from the fertile land to the streams and sea of Malaysia's west coast, from small plates to larger ones, each sharing-suitable.
Kuala Selangor spawns the lemon sole, fleshy and fork-tender, its gentle tang complemented by vine tomatoes, cushioned by sweet potato mash (RM48), while Tanjung Malim brings sturgeon to the surface, gorgeously grilled, great enough to eat on its own but enlivened further with assam pedas butter and pickled shallots (RM75).
Plenty of thought and skill have been poured into these recipes, resulting in impressive nuance and depth - fish can be delicate, and in the hands of Tapestry's chef, it's a genuine delicacy.
Part of Tapestry Dining's identity is as a modern grill, so it's fair to expect smoky succulence from its Perak-origin poultry.
Ipoh-bred spring chicken is a prime pleasure, smooth and moist - true to form, Tapestry succeeds in matching it flawlessly with a complementary sauce, this time in the form of roasted red pepper (RM55).
We hadn't realised that Kampar has a noteworthy duck farm, but its fowl was raised well - the confit duck leg is something to sink your teeth into (RM66), a luscious specimen that's a credit to its species, with the whole thigh and drumstick sitting pretty on a sumptuous stew of barley, black beans, black-eyed peas and chickpeas. There's a surprise component to this - a side dish of duck fat financiers, a dense, decadently savoury take on the petite French cakes.
Sabah and Sarawak are respectably represented in Tapestry Dining's edible equation, the former by seafood, of course. From the bountiful shores of northern Borneo comes squid, a far cry from rubbery, a tantalising testament to both its provenance and the proficiency of Tapestry's crew, robust with XO sauce for concrete proof of Asian inflections (RM58).
Fish and crustaceans from the Land Below The Wind share the cast-iron spotlight with whole grains from the Land of the Hornbills, as Sarawak's indigenous-sown Job's tears form the foundation for a Malaysian 'risotto' that speaks with what evokes an oats-and-nuts conviction of its terroir - a should-try for folks seeking a distinctive dish capitalising on local elements (RM66).
Sarawak pineapples sweeten up our final course, the South American tres leches, sizzling with table theatrics - buttery house-baked sponge cake, nectarous with a layer of pineapple compote, poured over with a three-milk blend of condensed milk, evaporated milk and heavy cream - it's safe to order this for dessert, since it'll be a surefire smash with most patrons (RM25).
Service is assured and amiable at Tapestry, encouraging us to linger with a glass of Italian orange wine constantly close by.
Tapestry Dining
28, Jalan Kamunting, Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur. Dinner menu available Wed-Sun, 630pm-1030pm. Tel: 03-7622-8720