Trattoria Il Porcellino @ Menara Hap Seng

Returning to Trattoria il Porcellino. Earlier entries: Aug. 23, 2011, & Sept. 6, 2011.

Too many porky temptations to wax lyrical about here, but rest assured that Trattoria il Porcellino's fare remains supremely hearty & tasty. Try the house-made potato gnocchi, adorned with pork bacon & green peas in a creamy sauce.

Classic pork carbonara. Trattoria's kindest trait: its willingness to offer pasta in both regular & small servings; this cost RM14 before taxes for a light-eater's portion.

 Ravioli stuffed with minced pork & spinach in tomato sauce.

 Rigatoni in pork bolognese sauce.

Pappardelle with minced pork sausage & mushrooms in a cream sauce (RM15).

Spaghetti with prawns & spicy pork meatballs in tomato sauce.

 A fine roast: Roasted pork ribs with roasted potatoes.

Sauteed pork tenderloin with capsicum, cherry tomatoes & mashed carrots. Comfort food.

This might not look alluring, but it's amazing: pork belly, crispy-skinned & succulent-fleshed, with cheese-crusted scallop.

Costoletta alla Milanese (RM21), deep-fried breaded pork chop with French fries.

Trattoria's Italian-style interpretation of a pork burger, with a house-made pork patty, mozzarella, onions & mushroom in ciabatta bread, served with chunky fries (RM27).

Less satisfying: a sandwich of baguette stuffed with Parma ham & buffalo mozzarella (RM31).

So not everything here's a total hit: the spaghetti amatriciana, with bacon, tomato sauce & pecorino cheese, is OK but its rather wan flavors might pale against its peers.

Skip the knuckle, maybe; when we tried it, it bore an overly porky, off-putting stench.

Some nondescript salad to counter the sinfulness of this porky spread, though that veggie virtue itself is countered by the side serving of bread, cheese & chili, supplied for stomach-stuffing.

Trattoria sells cocktails for drink-in & takeaway. Try the South American ones, like Cuba Libres, Margaritas, Caipirinhas & so on.

Trattoria il Porcellino,

Menara Hap Seng, Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur.

Sayong Kitchen @ Dungun, Damansara Heights

Aidilfitri Greetings: Here's a solid selection of Malay fare at the recently opened Sayong Kitchen, perfectly positioned for Damansara Heights' office crowd.

Nangka Gulai Lemak Kuning (RM3), a recipe that gives traditional cooking a good name.

Ikan Masin Tumis Darat (RM3), the kind of savory-gravy food to partner with plenty of rice.

Daging Masak Hitam (RM4), not triumphantly tender but not terribly tough either.

Ayam Gajus (RM4), simple but reasonably satisfactory. Can't say much more than that.

Bubur Lambok (RM3), creamy & tasty. Comfort carbs, always welcome.

Plenty of kuih-muih: kuih cara berlauk to seri ayu, cucur badak to bingka ubi.

Sayong Kitchen,

Ground Floor, Bangunan Malaysian Re, Lorong Dungun, Damansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur.

Open Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm

Tel: 03-2011-0357

La Crêperie de Caroline @ Telawi, Bangsar

Brittany bids bon appétit to Bangsar: A crêperie run by French entrepreneur Caroline Broutin curled open this week in Telawi, striving to spread the popularity of the traditional thin pancakes for which the northwestern Gallic region is renowned.

The selection here is unexpectedly extensive: Nearly 20 types of savory galettes, followed by more than 25 dessert crepes. Pancake paradise indeed.

Start with savory: Breton galettes, garnished with ratatouille, stuffed with goat's cheese (RM27+) & made with buckwheat flour that's flown in from France & a kitchen's aspiration for authenticity.

Galette with smoked salmon, shrimp, roe, chives, lemon & fresh cream (RM32+). The base is beautiful _ crisp but fluffy, fresh & far from starchy. Perfect, nearly.

Galette with leek fondue & emmental cheese (RM25+). Love, love, love.

For hearty cravings: Galette centered with egg, rounded by beef & tomato puree (RM32+).

Each galette comes with a bowl of beetroot-laced salad that's an admirable accompaniment.

Sweet crêpes are supplied too, of course; we prefer the savory ones, but it's still worth trying fun varieties like this crêpe deliciously coated with salted butter & caramel (RM21+).

Crêpe crowned & filled with house-made chestnut spread. Feels like Christmas in August.

More elaborate: Crêpe with rich house-made chocolate & toasted bananas (RM29+).

The ultimate sweet-tooth indulgence: Crêpe with vanilla ice cream, pineapple sorbet, stewed pineapple & plenty of whipped cream (RM29+), a potential balm for broken hearts.

Call this the coup de grâce: Crepe flambeed with Cointreau, topped with almonds (RM39+).

Waffles, sandwiches & other bites will also be served here imminently.

Wine is currently not offered (but it will be); customers can bring their own (corkage is RM50).

Still, there might be complimentary Calvados. Much appreciated.

 Thanks to the service team for working hard in hopes of making this a pleasant evening for us.

La Crêperie de Caroline,

33, Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2202-0238

Open 11am-11pm, except Mondays. Closed Aug. 9-11 for Aidilfitri, open Aug. 12 evening.

Soleil @ Section 17, Petaling Jaya

Here comes the sun: It's been a long cold lonely winter for fresh openings in PJ's Section 17, but with Soleil brightening up this neighborhood beginning this week, the smiles really might return to many faces now.

 It seems like years since we've tasted the cooking of Evert Onderbeke. Our initial brush with this Belgian-born chef was on High Tide's first night in October 2009; when that excellent seafood restaurant closed, he stuck around for awhile with its replacement, Cuisine Gourmet By Nathalie, but now he's seeking success on new terms with Soleil.

 Starting with Soleil's own-baked bread rolls, moreish enough to munch ceaselessly.

 Chef Onderbeke's forte remains the fruits of the ocean; no fewer than six of Soleil's eight starters are all about seafood. Meat's not exactly the priority here.

 Yellow fin tuna tartar with wasabi mayonnaise & citrus gel (RM36++), a little darling of an appetizer that's resolutely in the "tastes as terrific as it looks" category.

 Marinated crab meat with Momotaro tomatoes & basil sorbet. With even the cheapest choice here costing RM36++, Soleil might not be an outlet for ordinary occasions.

 Impeccably pan-fried Hokkaido scallops with gnocchi, asparagus & pesto (RM51++).

 Oven-baked North Sea cod with sauteed leeks, mussels & piquillo pepper coulis (RM68++). Delicate textures made memorable with sultry Spanish flavors.

Barramundi crusted with herbs & tempeh, with crab ravioli, Eastern mushrooms & crab jus (RM68++). This dish defines Soleil; call it a modern European restaurant with Asian influences.

Soleil boasts an unexpectedly well-stocked bar; there's Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve champagne (RM48++ per glass), as well as numerous wines, cocktails & even sake.

We say it's all right. More than all right; expect to hear more about Soleil in the months ahead.

Soleil Restaurant & Wine Bar,

22A, Jalan 17/54, Section 17, Petaling Jaya.

Same row as Bistro a Table & Verona Trattoria

Tel: 03-7932-5989
Open for lunch & dinner, except Wednesdays. But for Raya week, open Wed, closed Thurs.
Click here for online reservations.

This restaurant is available for bookings under TABLEAPP, which enables customers to make instant reservations at Malaysia's top restaurants, while saving time and money in the process. Reserve your table at this restaurant by clicking here.