Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Cuisine Gourmet by Nathalie

After a year of soaking up accolades at Solaris Dutamas, chef Nathalie Arbefeuille has stretched her frontiers, curating new concoctions at a sparkling venue that replaces High Tide in the city.

Cuisine Gourmet by Nathalie is off to somewhat slow start. At High Tide's opening night in October 2009, only two tables were taken; in an eerie parallel, Cuisine Gourmet's first official dinner also attracted only two sets of paying customers, who began with the ritual of breaking fresh bread. Our reservations made one week in advance proved unnecessary.

A crucial note: head here for dinner instead of lunch. The difference: in future, Nathalie will only cook at this new outlet during dinner, since she'll remain faithful to her Solaris Dutamas restaurant at lunch. So if you want her to oversee the preparation of this crab cremeux in cucumber gazpacho with lobster bisque espuma, then come here only when the sun sets.

Everything on the menu bears Nathalie's inimitable creative imprint, though the kitchen retains the invaluable services of High Tide's maestro Evert Onderbeke. The Nathalie-Evert/French-Belgian partnership is a paean to cuisine par excellence, embodied by this idiosyncratic but indelible lasagne stuffed with snails, garlic mousseline & herb emulsion.

John Keats famously wrote that "a thing of beauty is a joy forever." This superb soup, comprising crispy Jerusalem artichokes with emulsified porcini mushrooms, was beautiful indeed, but alas, it supplied us with merely a minute of merriment. Still, we loved it truly. Suffused with both sweetness and earthiness that seemed otherworldly.

Scallops mashed three ways; one with oysters, the next with chives, the last with apples. Served with arugula sorbet (!!!!!). A masterclass on how to combine culinary components that create captivating chemistry.

Let's lift the veil on the desserts here, which are hypnotic in every sense of the word. Exhibit A: Rose meringue, with a heart of lychee & raspberry coulis.

Exhibit B: Gingerbread ice cream & grapefruit sorbet, paired with two types of macarons: lavender & apricot, alongside lemon & thyme.

Complimentary macarons to take home. Wheeeee!

Make no mistake: from Favola to Fisherman's Cove, Il Lido to Il Primo, Mandarin Grill to Millesime and Sage to Senses, we've repeatedly confirmed that KL's best restaurants can ensure an enthralling experience even in their earliest hours of business. By this criterion, Cuisine Gourmet seems a shoo-in to inhabit that illustrious shortlist.


Cuisine Gourmet by Nathalie,
Menara Taipan, Jalan Punchak,
Off Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2072-4452
Check out EAT DRINK, a new F&B website jointly run by The Expat Group (TEG) & Eat Drink KL. This website features all of our up-to-date reviews, plus exclusive weekly articles & a searchable database on restaurants in KL & Selangor: EatDrink.my

20 comments:

  1. We were here for lunch and we guessed you would be here for dinner. We guessed right!

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  2. baby sumo: oooh, hopefully our paths will eventually cross someday! though i rarely do lunch, so maybe that might might not happen very soon. but let's keep our fingers crossed =)

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  3. Oh yay! Nathalies's finally in town & open fr dinner! Suits you & it's pretty nearby ur office :)

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  4. tng: oh yeah! it took me only 20 minutes to drive here from my workplace (while my friend who met me here took 50 minutes to arrive from his office outside the city center, heheh) :D

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  5. i still miss high tide. but it looks good.

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  6. This is a watered down version of High Tide, now with a generic menu and a hideous design (purple?). I discovered High Tide after it won best cuisine at the gourmet food festival - KL is poorer for its disappearance.

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  7. ooo! just read about this place on baby sumo's blog! it's definitely on mah list yo;)

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  8. Michelle: ya, now that both high tide and Pacifica at mandarin oriental are gone, we've lost the two totally unique seafood specialists in the city...
    Sarah: it would have been nice if high tide had survived, since it was an outstanding restaurant. Cuisine gourmet is a totally different outlet, with different food but very good food too. And the service team here includes some of high tide's people, so service is still brilliant, definitely ranking among kl's best (I should have mentioned them in the entry).
    Ciki: hope you manage to check the place out soon! It's closed on Sundays though, so it'll require a special trip into the city on a weeknight or Saturday nite :D

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  9. Looks really impressive, another on my long list to try!

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  10. hungry female: or maybe you could just tear up that list and eat wherever your heart and instincts tell you to! heheh :D

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  11. For half a minute I read inedible lasagne instead of indelible, haha.

    But dude, I trust your taste - you've been quite on the ball with your recommendations, the occasional turkeys aside. :P

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  12. lfb: the only inedible stuff at this restaurant would be the furniture and the cutlery (since even the all-male service team is very yummy!) :D but anyway, maybe we're just not turkey connoisseurs. or we weren't in a sufficiently fowl mood that time :P

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  13. I really like all the foam on the dishes... It's almost too pretty to eat! Time to head there for a visit!! :)

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  14. iamthewitch: oooh yeah, the foam adds an interesting texture to those recipes, so it actually serves a useful purpose too, heheh! :D

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  15. so what's the price point like? Comparable to Il Lido or Millesime?

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  16. eiling: yeah, pricey! a three-course meal should cost no less than RM100 (without wine)

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  17. tried their seafood menu, it's surprised me, unexpected as awesome as High Tide!

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  18. lemonadelime: heheh, i guess it helps that they've retained the excellent high tide chef! :D

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  19. i'm planning to go here for my second internship! :)

    www.meal-expedition.blogspot.com

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  20. Agnes: hope u have a great time! :D

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