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Poutine purists might scoff, but most of us will scarf down Wild Table’s Golden Mess take on Québécois fries, crisp and rustically chunky, showered with chicken gravy, grated Emmental cheese, chives, plus chicken crackling for can’t-stop-snacking indulgence.
Also try the Steakhouse Mac of macaroni with slow-braised beef short rib, three-cheese mornay, pecorino tuile and pickled cucumber, tasty and thoughtfully textured. Balance the richness with a brightly citrusy orange-lemon cooler buoyed by burnt honey.