More than 10 years ago, we walked into an Italian restaurant in Solaris Dutamas, before Publika even opened, and found a chef from Bologna and his Malaysian wife serving up rustic Italian meals that evoked family-run trattorias. That restaurant, Osteria RealBlue, soon nurtured a reputation for handmade pastas, crespelles and cotoletta - it even served bistecca alla fiorentina, that titanic Tuscan steak.
The fun times fizzled out after Osteria RealBlue moved to DC Mall, where it eventually closed. So it was a pleasant surprise when we visited Jalan Ampang's Insieme (Italian for 'together') this year and found Osteria Realblue's Sherry Goh, who lived in Bologna for nearly two decades before returning with her Italian husband to Malaysia, running this restaurant.
This is a much more modest set-up compared to Osteria, with only a few tables in a small space. The menu is well-represented by everything from Insieme's own-made gnocchi and garganelli, taglierini and tagliatelle, with accompaniments that span amatriciana sauce to wild boar ragu, true to Italian traditions (mostly RM25-RM35).
If you're in the mood to splurge, dine on the dishes with the prized Umbrian black truffles of Norcia, scattered heavily over lightly cheese-laced risotto or with pumpkin-and-pork ravioli (RM200 each). The nutty truffles come in thick slices, yielding an unmistakably aromatic crunch. Pair with a Tuscan Montalcino (RM28).
Insieme Italian Restaurant
Hock Choon Supermarket, Lot 1F-09, First Floor, Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur.
Open Monday-Saturday, 11am-8pm. Tel: 017-738-0163
