Tuesday, October 12, 2010


One of KL's most deserted hotel restaurants, but undeservedly so. This is an elegant, classic setting (let's avoid the word "old-fashioned") that's ideal for a calm, relaxed dinner, with mellow French-language songs gently wafting in the background.

The absence of any other customers on a recent weekday evening could be counted as a blessing: we had a perpetually replenished spread of bread _ accompanied by two flavors of butter (fruit & pesto) _ all to ourselves.

This year's MIGF menu at L'Heritage kicks off with an amuse bouche featuring a tartar of Kobe beef & black caviar, alongside a smoked & roasted tomato shooter. A tangy way to tantalize the taste buds for the numerous courses ahead.

Maine lobster Thermidor with old-style Cafe de Paris butter. Small pieces of lobster (less than bite-sized) with thick, savory sauce.

Foie gras au torchon with quail leg confit, baby pear strudel, crayfish oil & redcurrant reduction. Nearly every recipe here had a complex range of components. For this, the soft, velvety liver went quite nicely with the tender (but understandably bony) quail.

Salmon trout poached in duck fat (tasted like regular salmon, but a bit more moist) & yabbies coated with oats & Maltaise sauce (texturally interesting, but unmemorable, taste-wise). Freshness was a problem with some dishes here _ several ingredients tasted past their prime.

Garlic onion soup with porcini fricasee. Nicely presented, but if someone ate this blindfolded, he might believe it was just another soup served at an upmarket cafe like Delicious.

Lamb noisette with red onion dauphines, white anchovies, black truffles & gremolata oil. An outright disaster. The lamb was unbearably gamy _ practically foul. The anchovies were no help, while the truffles were wasted.

A palate-cleanser of lavender sorbet with honey candied kalamansi. Sourish, but helped to remove the aftertaste of the lamb.

Slow-braised Black Angus ribs with sweetbread & morels in a choux pastry cage. An eye-catching composition; the beef was flavorsome enough, but the highlight was the pillowy, delicate sweetbread (calf thymus & pancreas).

Orange souffle with dates. Competently prepared, but not extraordinary.

Valrhona chocolate brulee & caramel tea parfait. Can anyone possibly not be stuffed by now? This set menu seems designed for stupendous appetites.

French cheese assortment. Marvelously stinky.

Chocolate pralines. A sweetly satisfying end to a meal that had a tad too many misses. B+ for effort, but the final results on the table merit a lesser B-.

Click here for earlier entry on L'Heritage (Oct. 9, 2009).

Royale Chulan Hotel, Kuala Lumpur.
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  1. I didn't even know that Royale Chulan was a hotel. I thought it was a service apartment, until I came across your post! gah.

  2. Black truffle are always a great way to liven up any meal. But a professional cook should know how to use a black truffle properly in the kitchen or it is a waste.
    Be A Black Truffle Farmer

  3. i wonder how long the ingredients had been sitting in the fridge b4 it was cooked?

  4. This is kind of dining ambiance I'm looking for but the foods seem not really that good??

  5. "Marvelously stinky"?

    Well, looks like some hits and misses on the menu.... but gosh, that's a lot of courses!

  6. It's a chicken and egg situation, I reckon, re the quality of the produce, because it's hard to estimate traffic at the restaurants here (both here and at Bunga Emas). It looks like a lovely place, though. Classic decor which will appeal to a certain type of crowd. :-D

  7. michelle: ahh, that's ok, it hosts events regularly, but it's not a high-profile place for eating :D
    stevan: oh, the truffles here tasted OK, but they were just wasted on a bad dish...
    joe: i shudder to imagine! two or three days too many, it seemed...
    lemonadelime: maybe the a la carte menu might be better! or at least i hope so :D
    j: yeah, this might be the migf menu with the most courses! it's enough to order just one set and share among two people :D
    lemongrass: yeah, a vicious circle. i do admire their effort though, and it's obvious that the chef put a lot of thought into creating this menu. and yeah, it's a very different ambiance from 99 percent of kl's other restaurants :D

  8. I passed by here several times while going to Prince Hotel :P other than the building, nothing else!! LOL

  9. leo: gosh, i don't think i've eaten at prince hotel this whole year! the last time was probably 2009, at their chinese restaurant :D

  10. several ingredients tasted past their prime.. does not sound like a good thing! anyway, lets hope we have better luck day after 2mro! cannot w8! :P

  11. ciki: ya, on one hand, i'm glad that they managed to use the food instead of having to throw it away ... but on the other hand, that lamb tasted putrid!!!

  12. really? it is one of the most deserted hotels in KL? Hey the food presentation looks good.

  13. eiling: oh the hotel is busy, but this restaurant in it is usually empty. yeah, the food definitely looks pretty :D

  14. "Can anyone possibly not be stuffed by now?"

    Oh yes, I can think of someone who fits the bill, judging by his mass consumption of eggs at udon diners... :P

  15. lfb: i was stuffed here! maybe eggs and udon are just full of hot air after all, and we should be eating french food instead if we wanna get satiated :D

  16. Hmm... Japanese vs. French... I'd vote for Jepun anytime over Perancis. :)

  17. lfb: i can't quite imagine life without sashimi and sushi, but i think in the long run, french food is more satisfying! if i were ever sentenced to death by hanging, i know my request for my last meal wouldn't be udon :D

  18. Hi Sean
    Kindly be informed that this post has been reprinted on JoinMe.com.my, thanks. ^^
    P/S: We have put your name and link credit back to this article.