Romanza @ Ampang

It's always cause for celebration when a fresh-faced outlet takes off at Terrace at Hock Choon; Romanza Le Restaurante marked its maiden flight on Valentine's Day, propelled by fantastic fusion fantasies in which Europe & Asia land on a singular runway of recipes.

Romance was in the air as Romanza unveiled its lovely setting to endearing effect, with a band charming customers with renditions of Eric Clapton's "Beautiful Tonight" & Elton John's "Something About The Way You Look Tonight" _ though it was bizarre that they also sang Adele's "Someone Like You."

Cold winter melon & coconut soup with ginger sorbet & pine nuts, strange but exhilarating. The foundation of the menu is French Mediterranean, flirting with influences from Japan, Indonesia & more, balanced by South African chef Steven Kruger with high-wire culinary bravura.

Tempura of tiger prawns, mango & sesame salsa with Pommes Maxim, pickled red cabbage, curly lettuce & rose caviar in a vanilla-&-black pepper vinaigrette. Painstakingly put together, but perhaps overly fussy, with so many components competing for attention.

Roasted chicken thigh roulade, glazed with Indonesian sweet soy sauce & served with crisp leeks & risotto laced with spring onions & shiitake mushrooms. The risotto might be a bit too mushy, but this remains flavorsome enough to keep us tantalized.

Slurp & swallow: freshly shucked oyster with plum chutney, fish roe & apple kiwi salsa.

The happily-ever-after: rose-&-yogurt-swirled sorbet with lime jelly & crystallized rose petals.

Cocktails are available; berry margaritas contain all the Vitamin C you'll need this week.

Seeing red, with wine that runs crimson. 'Tis the season to be tipsy ...

Romanza Le Restaurante,

Terrace at Hock Choon, Off Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-4252-6059

Las Delicias & Le Trianon

Citta Mall is an improbable locale for a European-inspired brasserie, especially one that's strictly non-halal, but confounding expectations might be Las Delicias' forte.

Las Delicias' food seems pricey for this part of town, but its ingredients are plentiful & praiseworthy. Can't fault the fettuccine, with lots of lip-smacking pork bacon & luscious scallops luxuriating in light tomato cream (RM34++).

Herb-cooked duck confit, flavorful in a fine fellowship with potato gratin & mesclun in mushroom-&-mustard sauce (RM39++). More elaborate & enjoyable than many other versions.

Cheesecakes constitute the cornerstone of Las Delicias' dessert counter; this mysteriously named "Monte Carlo cake," with traces of wine, is moist & well-balanced in sweet-savoriness.

Complimentary cookies. Reminiscent of buttery-nutty Chinese New Year ones.

And of course, there's red & white by the bottle & the glass. We'll drink to Las Delicias' future, though the lack of a weekend lunch crowd here isn't a positive portent.

Another addition to Citta Mall: Le Trianon, a kiosk that's kinda intriguing because it offers only a small selection of chocolate cakes.

Le Trianon's signature layered creation of the same name, rich & full-bodied in cocoa decadence. Costs slightly under RM10 per slice.

Las Delicias & Le Trianon,

Citta Mall, Ara Damansara.

Sevillas

This plush cigar-&-wine lounge is attempting to attract well-heeled customers to Plaza Damansara, though business seems to be slow for now.

Spanish-style tapas form the foundation of Sevillas' menu _ enjoyably well-prepared recipes like salmon with Pernod dressing & lump fish caviar, served on toast.

Button mushrooms sauteed with garlic & oregano _ uncomplicated enough to whip up at home, but still worth ordering. Expressive of the earthiness that mushroom-lovers want.

Creamy-soft mozzarella & tomato puree bound in aubergines sliced almost fingernail-thin, then drizzled with an invigorating vinaigrette infused with basil.

Potatoes & onions in omelets. Prices are pretty reasonable; a meal here shouldn't cost more than one at, say, La Bodega.

Roasted almonds, coated with butterscotch sauce for a sugary stickiness.

Fried anchovies. Let's hope Sevillas expands its menu soon to include heavier Spanish dishes; true, Flamenco on this same street already serves paella, but we sure do relish our rice.

Cocktails, nearly intoxicating enough to fill our evening's quota: Galiano Hot Shot (galiano, coffee, cream) & El Diablo (tequila, lime juice, blackcurrent liquor, ginger ale).

Cuba Libre (rum, coke, lime) & Curacao Margarita (tequila, blue curacao, lime juice).

M Chapoutier Cotes du Roussilon Bila Haut & Coteaux du Tricastin La Ciboise.

Sevillas @ Plaza Damansara,

Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2095-5566

Entree @ Damansara

Attempts at Asian fusion cooking can often stir up dining disasters, but this casual cafe is bucking that trend with its creative culinary choices.

Flavors here are bold enough to seize attention from the start. Grilled prawns & alfalfa on wholemeal toast might sound innocuously pleasant, but "assam pedas" concasse turns it into an hors d'oeuvre like no other, flaring with spicy pyrotechnics to put the tongue on red alert.

Burger lovers, brace yourselves for one of the Klang Valley's best beef patties _ enjoyably coarse & chewy, this tastes like real meat instead of unidentifiable cow components minced & processed into fast food. The Asian element: an aromatic lemongrass essence in every bite.

Penang-inspired produce: 46th Rangoon Street laksa _ slippery, slurp-worthy noodles soaked in a remarkably flavorsome curry broth brimming with shredded chicken, prawns, beansprouts, tofu pok & crispy bean curd skin.

But not everything here is a smash hit; the fish & chips with tomato lime sambal are as forgettable as a food court offering. Still, it's impressive that Entree keeps prices low; set lunches hover around RM10, while a filling dinner could easily dip below RM30 per person.

Entree's (pork-free) menu features only two desserts, but both are intriguing enough to try. Deep-fried California plums with gula melaka reduction? A little too sourish for our liking, though the vanilla ice cream manages to take some of the edge off it.

Jack fruit spring rolls with apricot coulis. Something that grandparents would probably adore, since it kinda tastes like a traditional crispy street snack.

Wine isn't listed on the menu, but ask & you will receive. Entree supplies delicious South African varieties nicely priced at RM18+ by the glass. Service is reassuringly prompt & friendly.

Ipoh white coffee & tea-coffee combos are also available.

Being optimistic: Entree could fare fairly well, despite Damansara Uptown's parking woes & worrisome competition among the neighborhood's galaxy of eateries.

Entree Cafe @ Damansara Uptown,

33, Jalan SS21/56B, Damansara Utama (beside The Ship restaurant).

Tel: 03-7732-8540

Open daily through 10 pm.

Too Late For Breakfast @ Acme

Can't wake up early enough for the most important meal of the day? Acme Bar & Coffee has introduced a section on its menu called "Too Late For Breakfast," comprising mostly egg dishes available 11 through 6, everyday except Sunday.

Earlier entries on Acme: Dec. 2, Dec. 5, Dec. 7, Dec. 15 & Dec. 18.

How would you like your eggs? Fried with flair, featuring sunny-golden yolks with a fairy-dust sprinkling of crunchy herb bread crumbs, laid on a cushion of succulent asparagus stalks?

Or perhaps poached _ not exactly to perfection, but satisfyingly enough _ & partnered with grilled mushrooms & Acme's own-made toasted bread?

Maybe they're best baked, with spinach & ricotta cheese for a soft & savory melange?

But the fluffiest, most fulfilling one of them all: the scrambled eggs, still slightly runny, served with crumpets & interspersed with slivers of smoked salmon & spring onions.

Not looking for eggs? Not likely, but here's an addictive alternative nevertheless: fragrantly scrumptious gingerbread, set to be slathered with a thick, sweet spread of maple syrup butter.

Another addition to Acme's menu: cocktails (finally!). The cafe is starting with classics such as the Negroni (Hendrick's gin, Campari, vermouth, flamed orange).

It might be too late for breakfast, but it's never too early for a trusty Old-Fashioned (Bulleit bourbon, aromatic bitters, orange zest).

Mojito, with a twist (Bacardi Carta Blanca rum, fresh lime juice, mint leaves & salted caramel). Couldn't really taste the salted caramel though.

Daiquiri (Bacardi Carta Blanca rum, fresh lime juice & molasses).

And the teetotaler's option: coffee & orange juice, if you really, really must.

Acme Bar & Coffee (ABC) @ The Troika,

Persiaran KLCC, Jalan Binjai, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2162-2288