Head-to-toe eating: Battered pan-fried calf's head with potato salad & remoulade sauce in Munich's elegant Spatenhaus ...
... & pork trotters stuffed with chanterelles in Madeira sauce at the five-decade-old Au Pied De Cochon in Geneva's old town - hearty soul food with nary a drumstick, rib-eye or fillet in sight.
