Now that Nikko Hotel has become the InterContinental, its Japanese outlet, Benkay, has also experienced a name change, turning into Tatsu.
Not much else is different so far; the restaurant will be refurbished soon, but its menu remains reassuringly wide-ranging. This mix of mascarpone with bonito is a masterstroke, with the soft, smooth cheese blending unexpectedly well with the slimy, salty fish.
Grilled cod fish teriyaki, sandwiched with foie gras. Sounds heavenly on paper, but a preparation like this flops irredeemably when the liver is overcooked to the brink of being all dried out.
Chef's Special Maki, featuring eel, soft-shell crab & avocado with almond sauce. Delicious, but that's no surprise, considering the choice of components.
Omelet with mentaiko. Egg-lovers should be pleased with this recipe's luscious texture, though some might say its subtle flavors border on bland.
Shirayuki sake. Booze is dauntingly pricey here.
Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.