Kofuku

A sprawling venue with serenity assured, thanks to a severe lack of customers.

Kofuku's menu leans toward the conservative; we wondered how often (or rarely) the menu is revamped. Nevertheless, the tuna belly & hokkigai sushi tasted respectably fresh and juicy on this not-too-recent weeknight.

Kofuku Maki, featuring soft-shell crab, avocado, cucumber, fish roe & mayo. Competently executed, but too similar to what scores of other Japanese outlets serve. We expected something more, since this signature roll bears the restaurant's name.

Zosui porridge with chicken & egg in an earthen pot, served with pickles. Hot and hearty, but a bit too bland to really recommend. An extra ingredient _ pork perhaps, except that Kofuku cannot serve it _ might have instilled the essential oomph.

Our familiar refrain when the food is merely so-so: booze makes everything better.

Kofuku,

Seri Pacific Hotel, Kuala Lumpur.