Here comes the sun: It's been a long cold lonely winter for fresh openings in PJ's Section 17, but with Soleil brightening up this neighborhood beginning this week, the smiles really might return to many faces now.
It seems like years since we've tasted the cooking of Evert Onderbeke. Our initial brush with this Belgian-born chef was on High Tide's first night in October 2009; when that excellent seafood restaurant closed, he stuck around for awhile with its replacement, Cuisine Gourmet By Nathalie, but now he's seeking success on new terms with Soleil.
Starting with Soleil's own-baked bread rolls, moreish enough to munch ceaselessly.
Chef Onderbeke's forte remains the fruits of the ocean; no fewer than six of Soleil's eight starters are all about seafood. Meat's not exactly the priority here.
Yellow fin tuna tartar with wasabi mayonnaise & citrus gel (RM36++), a little darling of an appetizer that's resolutely in the "tastes as terrific as it looks" category.
Marinated crab meat with Momotaro tomatoes & basil sorbet. With even the cheapest choice here costing RM36++, Soleil might not be an outlet for ordinary occasions.
Impeccably pan-fried Hokkaido scallops with gnocchi, asparagus & pesto (RM51++).
Oven-baked North Sea cod with sauteed leeks, mussels & piquillo pepper coulis (RM68++). Delicate textures made memorable with sultry Spanish flavors.
Barramundi crusted with herbs & tempeh, with crab ravioli, Eastern mushrooms & crab jus (RM68++). This dish defines Soleil; call it a modern European restaurant with Asian influences.
Soleil boasts an unexpectedly well-stocked bar; there's Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve champagne (RM48++ per glass), as well as numerous wines, cocktails & even sake.
We say it's all right. More than all right; expect to hear more about Soleil in the months ahead.
Soleil Restaurant & Wine Bar,
22A, Jalan 17/54, Section 17, Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 03-7932-5989
Open for lunch & dinner, except Wednesdays. But for Raya week, open Wed, closed Thurs.
Click here for online reservations.
This restaurant is available for bookings under TABLEAPP, which enables customers to make instant reservations at Malaysia's top restaurants, while saving time and money in the process. Reserve your table at this restaurant by clicking here.
