It's the circle of life: Koryori Enoshima has replaced Ozeki Italian Cuisine, which closed at Wisma Cosway after only a year in business.
The place has been refurbished extensively, for a fresh, contemporary feel. Sorta nice, actually.
Enoshima's menu is a canny mix of conservative favorites & newfangled fare; begin with this innocuous complimentary amuse bouche of fried snapper & salmon.
Konnyaku sashimi (RM14++), the gelatinous "devil's tongue" root-plant jelly, sliced thinly & served sashimi-style with mustard-miso dip. Kinda fun; the texture matters more than the taste.
Prefer raw fish? The flying fish sashimi should satisfy, but at the steeper cost of RM38++.
Keeping it simple: Wagyu beef kushiyaki (RM25++), a meaty skewer well-marinated enough that it needs no togarashi spices for seasoning.
Enoshima maintains a smidgen of its predecessor's Italian influences, obvious in this piping-hot combo of tuna sashimi, grated yam & mozzarella cheese (RM22++).
Shirasu baby sardine & spring onion pizza (RM16++), sufficiently unusual to entice the curious.
Sake is available, as are wine & shochu-fruit combos like this one with tangy grapefruit.
Ozeki Italian Cuisine might be gone, but signs of its existence linger. All in all, Enoshima's a good-enough Japanese restaurant, though it lacks much of Ozeki's ambition.
G22-24, Ground Floor, Wisma Cosway, Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur.
Open for lunch & dinner.