The Royal Flush @ Oasis Square, Ara Damansara

The team behind Tom, Dick & Harry's could have a winning hand with its latest gambit, The Royal Flush, a Chinese restaurant that's remarkably regal, reigning over Ara Damansara in a three-level, lantern-festooned shrine of shimmering scarlet.

We're not bluffing when we say this place is beautiful. The Royal Flush raises the stakes for the Klang Valley's Oriental outlets; its ace in the hole might be a romantically moonlit rooftop garden where customers can chill out before banquets begin.

Work on The Royal Flush started two months ago, when the TDH dudes agreed to add another venture to their empire, which includes Hoofed & Ali, Muthu & Ah Hock. They then flew to China to secure furnishing & miraculously completed this place before the Lunar New Year.

The Royal Flush ups the ante for what Ara Damansara's Oasis Square corporate park will become. TDH representatives are keeping some cards close to their chest, but they'll soon open a fourth Tom, Dick & Harry's here, as well as a steakhouse that sounds flamboyantly fun.

All in? Many thanks to The Royal Flush for hosting this preview feast; house rules state that everything here must taste distinctively delicious, even starters such as crispy spring rolls & crunchy cucumber stuffed with chestnuts & pork floss ...

 ... as well as wonton skin-wrapped salmon flakes & cuttlefish crackers.

Subsequent courses hail from one of The Royal Flush's New Year sets, kicking off with a chilled seafood combo of shellfish with kiwi fruit ...

... & a sweet-savory oyster shooter that underscores the confident talent of The Royal Flush's main chef, a mysterious figure whom rumor claims has cultivated decades of experience at top establishments like Shang Palace & Marco Polo.

Dim sum is included in this set; these soup & pork dumplings & fish balls will also be available for lunch daily once The Royal Flush launches January 21.

Grilled cod fish is a highlight of these multiple courses, which total RM1,200 nett per table of ten. Fair, considering The Royal Flush cost some 2.5 million ringgit to construct.

TDH might be famed for pigs in blankets, but The Royal Flush scores with its succulent interpretation of bacon-cloaked scallops, instead of sausages.

Can't read our porky face? When the chips are down, we'd bet the farm on crowd-pleasing ribs.

Asparagus with bonito flakes pays off for folks seeking something a little less sinful.

 Our stomachs nevertheless folded in surrender at the abalone fried rice ...

 ... followed by double-boiled bird's nest ...

... & peanut-rich mochi that both man & monkey might love.

The Royal Flush is a no-shark-fins restaurant, so consciences can remain clean here.

This restaurant is now open for reservations for meals commencing Monday next week; its remaining Lunar New Year set meals are also absolute aces, promising everything from charcoal BBQ crispy suckling pig to fresh geoduck & salmon sashimi.

The Royal Flush seats some 250 in its ground-floor hall & first-level rooms.

The Royal Flush,

Central Piazza, Oasis Square Ara Damansara, 2, Jalan PJU 1A/7A, Petaling Jaya.

Tel: 012-211-7810, 016-2912-737, 012-299-7598