Table 23 @ Mesui

Comfort food is the catchphrase at this latest entry to the increasingly vibrant Mesui street, now a viable alternative to Changkat Bukit Bintang's chaotic nightlife.

Table 23 serves Asian fare by day & Western favorites by night in a spacious setting that nicely complements its neighbor Palate Palette. And with George Michael's Listen Without Prejudice Vol. 1 playing in the background, we can't fault the musical selection here.

The menu is compact: Table 23's five starters range from this pear & pickled fennel salad (RM17+, blessed with a lovely crunch from rocket leaves & spiced cashews) to potted shrimp with grape chutney & pumpkin soup with truffle oil.

Pork belly, in the form of confit & crackling (RM43+), with beetroot puree, sauteed asparagus & potato fondant. Flavorful, though the sodium content seems to soar.

Beef cheek with bacon, parmentier potatoes, cherry tomatoes & zucchini (RM62++). The menu describes this as a must-try; it's hearty, but the sauce might feel cloyingly overpowering. Still, that's a matter of personal preference.

Desserts are enticing, from apple strudel with vanilla ice cream & salted vanilla cream (15+) ..

... to a can't-fail, creamy-rich brandy-infused chocolate torte with berries (RM18+) ...

... to a house-made carrot cake with gula melaka (RM14+) that's probably worth the calories.

Not a bad wine list, with six by the glass, all below RM30 before taxes.

All things considered, Table 23 might not rank on 2013's best-of lists so far, but the friendly, enthusiastic team here seems to have its heart in the right place. We hope its future is bright.

Table 23,

23, Jalan Mesui, Off Jalan Nagasari, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2141-0023

Open for lunch & dinner, except Sundays.