Monday, June 4, 2012

Madisons @ Bangkung

Replacing Four Seas at Bangsar's Bangkung row, Madisons is the newborn member of the family of restaurants that comprises Opus Bistro, Leonardo's and Cava.

Madisons' menu bears an Australian influence, courtesy of Chef Kelly Delaney, who most recently headed the kitchen at Adelaide's award-winning Auge Italian restaurant.

Auge's menu kicks off with cured meat, so it's fitting that Madisons' does too. There's no resisting the fleshy, free-range chew of the Spanish Iberico lomo and chorizo, both seasoned with a blend of paprika, herbs, garlic and sea salt that complements the pork's nutty sweetness.

Potato gnocchi with candied pancetta, parmesan, white wine, black pepper, pecorino and yolk. Looks like comfort food, sounds like comfort food, so it must be comfort food.

Slow-cooked venison, lightly breaded and served atop carpaccio, garnished with walnut dust, blueberries, shaved green beans and goat's curd. We might prefer this stuffed with crab meat and accompanied by avocado, but that's an entire other recipe.

Pan-seared sea bass with speck ham, broad beans, olive dust, crispy potatoes and chervil oil. The juniper-tinged ham is a tasty touch that sets this apart from other fish preparations.

Sous vide pork belly, laced with aromatic herbs and served with organic de puy lentils. Cooked in a water bath for 24 hours to lock in the juicy, fatty flavor.

Sweet rice pudding, infused with vanilla and honey, topped with fig compote, cinnamon crumble and sherry cream. Madisons' desserts are as ambitiously intricate as its savory courses.

Even the "tiramisu" here offers more complexity than regular ones; it's a "deconstructed" interpretation, with mascarpone ice cream, chocolate earth, coffee pave and savoiardi fingers.

Heartland Stickleback (2009) seemed like an appropriately Australian order for this meal.

Frangelico and Baileys, for a fine finish to a fulfilling feast.

Madisons' prices are what must be expected on this row; a three-course meal without wine will cost north of RM100, including taxes.

The restaurant fits fewer than 50 customers, so be sure to make reservations; we expect a lot of things to be written and said about Madisons in the months ahead.

Madisons Restaurant,
Jalan Bangkung, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2092-1222
Open for lunch and dinner, except Sundays.
Check out EAT DRINK, a new F&B website jointly run by The Expat Group (TEG) & Eat Drink KL. This website features all of our up-to-date reviews, plus exclusive weekly articles & a searchable database on restaurants in KL & Selangor: EatDrink.my

26 comments:

  1. aAhh.. another change! Guess the mgmt decided that going Asian is not ideal for their establishments. Better stick back to Western!

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    1. TNG: it's interesting, the series of changes that this venue has gone through in the past two years. four seas was a western seafood restaurant at first, then they turned it into a chinese restaurant. and now we have this australian-themed restaurant, which i hope will be an enduring hit :D

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  2. mascarpone ice cream!!! <3

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    1. Michelle: 100 percent agreed! :D

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  3. I'm so trying the sous vide pork belly! :)

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    1. Bangsar-Babe: most fans of chinese siew yok will probably enjoy it! though the skin is more on the chewy side :D

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  4. drooling for the tiramisu...

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    1. Cindy: oh yeah, it's quite a fun preparation for tiramisu :D

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  5. Your sous vide pork belly reminds me that I've been reading up lots about home sous vide machines... Hmm, wonder if it's worth a try? :D

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    1. Kenny: ooh, i didn't realize the process could be replicated at home. do try! sounds like it'd require quite a bit of time and energy, but if the result is finger-lickin'-good pork, then it could be worth it :D

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    2. Replicated at home? Hmmmm, can try, provided that Mr EDKL provides us the ingredient. LOL

      Their tiramisu sounds interesting.
      I just suggested to my boss that maybe he can try to make peanut butter tiramisu!

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    3. CK: the recipe ... errrr, buy the pork belly first, and then we can search the internet to research the recipe :D
      oooh, peanut butter tiramisu also sounds very cool. maybe can find a recipe for that on google also! :D

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  6. I'd love to have a go at the sea-bass; it looks delicious! =) And I swear I could have that bread dish for my dinner, really.

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    1. Waverly: i'm usually not a sea bass fan, but this one had the right amount of moistness and juiciness for me :D and yay, bread-lovers unite! we'll rule the world (unless we succumb to a carbohydrate coma first) :D

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  7. Hmmm... menu looks interesting...but can't have chewy pork skin, can we??! I like the look of the seabass.

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    1. Pureglutton: oh yeah, a little more fine-tuning, and i think the pork belly will be a total triumph, a thorough hit! heheh :D and ya, the sea bass was fleshy and fresh, exactly as it should be =)

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  8. Maybe they should pan fry the skin for the pork belly so that it's nice and crisp. Then we will have a perfect melt-in-your-mouth-and-crisp dish.:)

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    1. Baby Sumo: that's an interesting suggestion! i'm completely clueless about whether it would work, since i've never cooked pork belly before, but it sounds like it's worth a shot :D

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  9. the pork belly looks good...
    I bet the taste is very nice and unique....

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    1. Simple Person: it was nice to try, but i think many of us might prefer the chinese-style siew yok though =)

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  10. Madisons...love the name. Guess Chinese food just doesn't make the cut for Bangkung Row. The cured meats look brilliant. So vivid and yummy.

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    1. Missyblurkit: the name made me think of madison avenue at first :D yeah, it's too bad that four seas didn't survive very long here. it was a good chinese restaurant; i liked it =) and yeah, the cured meats here are worth trying! about RM25 per platter, which is fairly reasonable :D

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  11. Madison is the name of Chef Kelly's daughter. Just came back. Loved it. Wasn't too fond of the pork belly - you are right; fans of siew yok and ham yee fah lam poh (I am fan of both and I do the latter dish rather well - ahem - my family loves it;)) won't fancy this sous-vide pork belly. Venison lollipop also let me down but the others were amazing - loved their bread but we had it with an olive oil and balsamic vinegar dip - very smooth, did not have the raw taste of olives or acerbic taste of vinegar. Creme Frita (I think) and the Waldorf Salad - yum. We had Stanley Estate Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough, NZ. Will definitely go back.

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    1. Dr Bahma: thanks for the info on the meaning behind madison. it's good to know :D ooh, i've not tried the waldorf salad here, but since i generally love that salad, i'm sure i'll adore madisons' version. will have it on my to-eat list. am glad you like this place too =)

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  12. Had dinner there last night. Wondered why no one has mentioned the bad service. Yes, B-A-D. Booked for a party of 5 but 3 others had yet to arrive. No one attended to us despite the restaurant being only half full. So we had to wave (apparently holding up one's hand doesn't get noticed) REPEATEDLY for service. 20 mins later we get served water and bread. Bread served on separate plates - 3 buns on one plate, 2 on the other. Us 2 at the table helped ourselves when suddenly, without saying a word, a waiter took one of the plate of bread and served it to the table next to us (who were recently seated). Wow, alright. How rude is that? Not to mention gross as we could have handled the bread (I don't think the waiter was observing us. After all, it took them 20 mins to notice us...) so to serve it to someone else!!!

    Next, when clearing our table, the butter dish was dropped. That's fine as accidents do happen, but for the waitress to then trade dirty looks with another all in our view....

    Finally, one of us ordered Irish Coffee. After another wait of 15 mins, we asked the waiter whom we placed our order with whether it is coming. The reply, the kitchen can't make it and "someone" was supposed to have informed us. Seriously, playing the blame game in front of guests? Very classy, not.

    As for the food, the OP beef was good but the sous vide pork was NOT juicy and so-so. Starters, ravioli and desserts were also good but not remarkable. Agree the prices are reasonable but for the service you have to put up with (the waiter staff were going around with long faces - only one out of 4 waiters had a smile! What a serious case of bad attitude!), I for one won't be back.

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    1. LCM: yikes, sorry to hear about your bad experience. i've enjoyed pretty friendly service during my visits here earlier this year, but i've not been back to recent months. i hope it's only a temporary glitch.

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