Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Mama San @ Suria KLCC

Mama San blazes into KL with style to burn: Bali's venerated Asian street food restaurant, spearheaded by Scots chef Will Meyrick, has opened its first Malaysian outpost in Suria KLCC, hoping to become one of 2015's hottest new establishments.

Take a table under Mama San's benevolent gaze inside this sultry eye-candy eatery, overlooking KLCC's street-level park, for a feast that explores our region's varied culinary colours, inspired & informed by the warongs of Jakarta & KL, the markets of Hanoi & the backroads of Bangkok, with a side trip to Delhi. 

Mama San's starters take a fowl turn - Indonesia's 'Ayam Tangkap Aceh' with curry leaves, pandan & & green chillies (RM28) channels a tongue-tingling spiciness, but the Vietnamese-inflected duck salad with green mangoes, carrots, shrimp, coriander & 'nuoc cham' sauce (RM30) rules the roost with its tangy-sweet dynamics.

Customers may flow in for a wide range of fish recipes: Wood-roasted barramundi - honouring Mama San's birthplace of Bali - fragrantly wrapped in banana leaves & partnered with kangkung & a trinity of condiments, including sambal matah (RM45), shares the spotlight with the likes of shark meat 'asam rebus' with belimbing wuluh & tandoori snapper with kachumber salad.

For meat: Indonesian 'dendeng balado' caramelised beef short ribs with kaffir lime (RM55) & Thai lamb shoulder massaman curry with pumpkin (RM40), both built with tender, flavoursome flesh. The melting-pot menu goes on, with Peranakan ayam buah keluak, soft-shell crab rojak, lamb murtabak, five-spice chicken lorbak & much more. But there's a notable omission: This is KLCC, so Mama San skips some signature recipes from Bali & Hong Kong, including crispy pork ribs & pork hock confit. 

The catalogue of desserts looks impressive from top to toe, but the stars may be the steamed buns stuffed with Nutella (Mama San's take on tau sar bao) & served with an affogato of vanilla ice cream & Balinese Kintamani espresso (RM18) & condensed milk ice cream with shredded young coconut, toasted coconut, crushed peanuts, sweet corn & sesame seeds (RM18).

Cocktails showcase a tropical fruit bent, from the very distinctively presented Lychee Tiffin Punch (RM28; vodka, lychee, strawberry, vanilla, mint, orange, lemon, lime) to the tequila-based Pineapple Kaffir Lime Margarita (RM28). Wine is available from RM170 a bottle - the Pinot Noir was enjoyable enough to justify its purchase. Service sparkles, with the entire team - from the front of house to the kitchen - working together to ensure a pleasant experience.

Mama San Kuala Lumpur Malaysia
G46, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 019-787-5810


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19 comments:

  1. Ooooooo!!!!! I like! I super-duper like!!! With a name like that, I thought it would be...yet another Japanese restaurant. Zzzzzz!!!!

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    1. Suituapui: there's one contemporary sashimi-style dish here, but other that than, it's all about mostly southeast asian delights! :D

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  2. Exciting to see some new options in KLCC.

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    1. The Yum List: yeah, i don't end up at klcc very much nowadays :)

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  3. When I first saw the name, I thought it'd be a nightclub with Mama-San in charge....hee...hee! :D I'm very excited to try out this place as its super near my place. I wonder which restaurant it took over from in KLCC?

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    1. Contact.ewew: heheh, ya, the name is definitely a catchy draw on its own :) i think it took over Dome's former lot beside KLCC's fountain entrance :)

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  4. The portions look huge to me! :)

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    1. Linda: they're definitely decent enough for sharing :)

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  5. I am a huge fan of coconut ice cream but they don't come cheap unfortunately...

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    1. Ken: this is condensed milk ice cream in the coconut half-shell :D

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  6. Sean, you truly are the fastest, most efficient blogger I know ;)

    I'm interested to try the dendeng balado, and really love their decor/interior!

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    1. Baby Sumo: oohhh ... thanks so much for your kind words, Yen! :) the dendeng belado was quite enjoyable - not tough or rubbery as i had feared :) and ya, they'd got a good big-budget decor! :D

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  7. Drink in tiffin, that's really fun to see!

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    1. Choi Yen: heheh, ya, i've never seen cocktails served in tiffins before! :D

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  8. It's very smart of them to serve steamed buns with the affogato - it gives a perception of value and also, coffee is dessert for many people.

    I like the ambience here, will definitely be dropping by.

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    1. Huai Bin: it's a good combination, i guess - a bit of hot and cold interplay too :) and ya, the ambiance is definitely one of KLCC's best. hope you enjoy mama san :)

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  9. Both the main course and dessert look good! Nutella is Mr. LFB's favorite, should ask him to try the bao, haha.

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    1. CK: heheh, ya, it's an interesting change from tau sar bao :D

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  10. would like to know, the portion for each (most) dish can be shared with how many people?

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