Romanza @ Hock Choon

Romanza: Round Two. Earlier entry on Romanza: February 15.

Just when we thought that duck liver pate could no longer wow us, this came along; rolled in beetroot dust, it's the textbook definition of "unctuous," in the most pleasurable fashion. Served with toasted brioche & dehydrated strawberry chips for a creative, eye-catching preparation.

Possibly the tastiest red snapper recipe ever _ a ziggurat of oven-roasted fish with a decadently creamy mix of butternut puree, carrot-&-beetroot chips, fish roe, mushrooms, asparagus & lemon veloute.

Lavender-crusted lamb rack & lamb shoulder with roasted grapes, pommes dauphinoise, lentils & seasonal veggies in thyme jus. This course confirmed a trend: Romanza takes familiar ingredients & confidently composes them into a chorus of components that not only complement but elevate each other.

Couscous with beetroot & a butternut-&-sage risotto. Some places serve couscous, others offer risotto; here's a rare opportunity to sample both on one plate in all their grainy glory. Sure, the risotto could be firmer, but the couscous was flawless.

Raspberry sorbet with white chocolate mousse, cocoa tuile & white choc-filled choux pastry, sugar shards & raspberry coulis. Not too sweet, not too sour. Stellar!

Complimentary chocolates.

And jellybeans too, to take with the receipt.

Cocktails _ not as indelible as the food but still impressive. Try the Watermelon-&-Rose Martini (vodka, watermelon schnapps, sour apple schnapps, rose water) & Heart of Africa (African Amarula cream, Nachtmusic hazelnut liquor & brandy).

Margaritas, drenched in tequila & made tangy with lime & orange liquor.

Being bubbly: the wine selection isn't sweeping, but it's sufficient.

Romanza Le Restaurante @ Ampang,

Terrace at Hock Choon, Off Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-4252-6059