Sunday, January 3, 2016

Bacchus @ The Row, Doraisamy

Chef Angie Hiew is back: The pioneering founder of KL's legendary Spanish restaurants Flamenco & Sentidos Tapas has been on a break for two years, but she returns this month with Bacchus, which specialises in small plates & wine at The Row.

The selection showcases mainly Spanish & Italian inflections - tapas-style spicy chorizo (RM16), garlic prawns (RM18), beef meatballs (RM16) & potato omelettes (RM15) share the limelight with poached egg cushioned with shaved cheese & pesto (RM12), bruschetta crowned with cream cheese & pear (RM18) & fried calamari (RM18). Pretty much nothing exceeds RM20.

A smattering of recipes flaunt East Asian leanings - the stand-out is the braised smoked pork belly, with layers of tender, confidently calibrated meat in lightly savoury gravy (RM18). The Oriental roast duck is also enjoyable for sharing & snacking, featuring boneless slices of fowl flesh partnered with a rich, thick plum sauce (RM16).

Fish dishes span both the raw & the cooked, from salmon sashimi with wasabi mayo (RM18) to slabs of dory with chillies & squid ink aioli (RM14). Creamy, kitchen-made sauces with flavoursome nuances prove to be one of Bacchus' key strengths.

Bacchus strives to honour its namesake, the Roman god of the grape harvest, with bottles of Australian Shiraz & Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon that start at RM75-RM80, plus vintages for serious enthusiasts that peak south of RM300. All in all, this is a respectable entry to The Row, accelerating the street's revival as a reliable destination for wining & dining in the city centre.

Bacchus Wine Bar
52, The Row, Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 012-330-7712
Mon-Fri, lunch & dinner; Sat, dinner. Note: Sandwiches & pastas available for lunch, small plates offered for dinner.

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10 comments:

  1. I think I'd enjoy the roast duck the most...boneless breast is the best part! By the way, what does fresh dory taste like?....since dory always gets a bad name for being usually in frozen form! :(

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    1. Contact.ewew: the duck was my third-favourite dish here, after the pork and the egg, heh. i love duck breast too in general :) hmmm, the dory here was pretty tender, though for the price of the dish (RM14), it was pretty much regular dory :)

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  2. I do love roasts...roast turkey, chicken, lamb, duck, pork, roasts! :) I really like the exposed brick.

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    1. Linda: i'm with you on roasts ... i think roast pork, duck and chicken would be my top three, heh :)

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  3. That's one lovely looking egg! Ooooo...duck!!! Slurpssss!!!!

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    1. Suituapui: i gleefully gobbled up the egg ... and we finished every slice of the duck too :)

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  4. The egg looks beautiful, oh and my favorite roast duck, hehe.

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    1. CK: heheh, yeah, not often we find a poached egg and chinese roast duck in a tapas-style restaurant :)

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  5. I quickly showed this post to my wife :) and her eyes were beaming with delight when she read it... Under RM100 wine with small plates of food - perfect for non-heavy eater like us

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    1. Leo: ooo, i didn't realise you guys were non-heavy eaters ... i like small plates cos it allows us to sample a lot of different dishes ... though in the end, the total cost of the meal will still add up, because we might have to order a lot to feel full, heh :)

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