Wanderlust @ Solaris Mont Kiara

Wondering where to wander this weekend? This new restaurant - a total overhaul of what was formerly Solaris Mont Kiara's Departure Lounge - is worth exploring, with a menu that shimmers with playful surprises, skilfully crafted from start to finish.

Instead of taking the obvious route of omelettes & Eggs Benedict, Wanderlust detours into deliciously different territory - come here for frittatas, commandingly fresh & convincingly textured, served warm with grilled butterfish & tomato chutney (RM28) or poached free-range egg with aromatic mushrooms & apple cider hollandaise on multigrain toast (RM22) or deep-fried poached egg on a wholesome-sounding salad of baby spinach, apple, raisins, gojis & orange vinaigrette (RM24, not pictured here).

Wanderlust steers clear of pork, but takes fowl liberties with some traditionally hog-based recipes; its rendition of Taiwanese gua bao (RM22) features the fluffiest buns, some fried & others steamed, stuffed with chicken (in this case, a gorgeously juicy substitute for pork belly), black olives, lemon & herbs for flavours that might intriguingly seem more South Asian than East.

Chicharrons are offered here, but instead of pork rinds, Wanderlust relies on fried chicken skin. No matter - these are terrific, light but flavoursome, memorably crunchy, perfectly partnered with sriracha aioli. RM15; note that Wanderlust's fare can feel a bit pricier than expected for moderate portions, but on the bright side, every bite is enjoyable - it's food with heart & wit.

 The slow-cooked pulled beef burger proves satisfying too, with a bun that tastes like honest bread, crowned with a sunny-side-up & cushioned with carrots & apple. But the true star here is the deep-fried beets, as addictive as a snack can be. RM25.

 Wanderlust has separate menus for daytime (11am-6pm) & dinner (6pm-10pm); there is some overlap (the gua bao & chicharrons are available all the time), but some offerings, such as the French toast with Earl Grey poached pear & vanilla mascarpone cream (RM19), are before-sunset-only orders. Make the effort to come early - it's a mighty fine French toast.

Desserts are a delight, from the potent & punchy Beeramisu (RM18), a tiramisu with stout, Irish cream & choc shavings ...

 ... to the classic-meets-contemporary combo of sago pearls with hot cream, double espresso & hazelnut brittle (RM18).

Common Man beans are employed to effective use in piccolos (RM10); single-origin hot chocolate is a more-subtle, less-sweet beverage that banks on 70 percent cacao from Brazil's Bahia region. Or, order the banana-spinach & beet-lemon smoothies.

Wine will be offered eventually, but for now, feel free to bring your own (or try Wanderlust's bottled craft beer selection). Service is a stand-out, with a helpful barista & an efficient team.

Wanderlust
10, Jalan Solaris 4, Solaris Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur. Open Wed-Mon, 11am-10pm; Sat-Sun, 9am-10pm (closed Tues)

Click here for online reservations.

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