Friday, July 11, 2014

Fuego Grill & Bar @ Troika Sky Dining

Round Two at KL's inventive new South American tapas bar with a view. Earlier entry on Fuego at Troika Sky Dining: June 12.

Watermelon comes grilled & garnished with a photogenic flair at Fuego, crowned with pickled tomatoes, fried halloumi cheese & raspberry vinegar glaze (RM30++). The kitchen performs a bravura juggling act with many of its dishes, hoping to keep a slew of tastes & textures as well-balanced as possible on each plate.

Foie gras is served in voluptuous fashion, with salt-baked potato, sage-tinged hollandaise sauce & balsamic reduction. RM65++.

Soft-shell crab, transformed into Fuego's version of nachos? Partnered with avocado mayo, sour cream & tomato dice, it's crisply addictive enough to make us wish the serving had been 10 times larger. RM35++.

We're not typically fans of mushrooms, but these 'matsutake' pine ones are as luscious as fungi can get, grilled for maximum smoky-earthiness, topped with eye-catching seaweed foam, deep-fried parsley & dissolve-in-the-mouth salt crackers. RM25++.

Salt cod croquettes, evocative of bacalao, a savoury treat with seaweed crust, shiso leaf gremolata & salmon roe mayo.

Fuego is equally proud of its big plates & small ones. Try the rare French beef flank with peaty whiskey salt rub, yuzu & black pepper sauce; it's the most convenient compromise here between quantity & quality, price & portion, clocking in at RM125++ for 500 grams that two can share.

Side dishes are also far from run-of-the-mill, ranging from spaetzle prepared with lemon, ricotto & thyme (RM20++) to hand-pressed baked Desiree potatoes topped with black olive tapenade (RM20++) ...

... to a shredded potato hash brown mixed with baby spinach & sour cream (RM25++).

Dessert? Definitely. What's labelled on the menu simply as 'Cookies Marshmallow 'n Chocolate (Oreo white chocolate cream, mint marshmallow, rocky road)' emerges as elaborately as anything else here, with a pinch of DIY assembly required. RM30++.

Other outlets are perfectly content to serve pavlova as it is; Fuego, of course, has to throw flambe brandy into the mix ...

... for a macerated berry-stuffed creation with shades of Bombe Alaska. RM35++.

One of the most fun aspects of Fuego is ordering cocktails, since they often surface in surprising presentations. Examples include this Port (sic) Flip, with brandy, ruby port & egg yolk. RM38++.

Rum infused with butter & popcorn (!) & the smokiest Margarita ever (Tequila Reposado, Cointreau, charcoal-grilled lemon).

Dry martini, made with gin & seaweed-infused dry vermouth for a panache & a price that's punchier than most. RM40++.

Fuego's menu says 'the cocktails listed below are the ones which name (sic) you might know, yet they differ to what you have drunk before.' That's certainly true of the whiskey sour (RM36++), with smoked bourbon, lemon, corn syrup & cayenne pepper.

Negroni, Daiquiri, Long Island Iced Tea, & good ol' red wine feature in the mix too, ensuring that sobriety is unnecessary.

Fuego Grill & Bar
Troika Sky Dining, Level 23A, The Troika, Jalan Binjai, Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-2162-0886

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29 comments:

  1. Love tat French beef flank with peaty whiskey salt rub, yuzu & black pepper sauce =)

    Got a question...comparing Fuego to Ohla...which one is better in terms of flavours and inventiveness? =)

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    1. Ulric: yeah, not the most tender cut ever, of course, but it definitely satisfies any beef cravings because its sheer size :) hmmm.... difficult ... inventiveness, probably would give the edge to fuego ... flavours, well, ohla's chef has more experience :D

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    2. Thanks for the feedback! :D

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    3. Ulric: no worries ... i think you'd probably enjoy the food at both outlets :)

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  2. I wonder if the Bombe Alaska is sweet or not. Those overseas are simply way too sweet, not to my liking.

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    1. Suituapui: this one would work for folks who like sweet-sourish flavours, with a bit of an liquor kick :)

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  3. Nice looking dishes, and beautiful views! :)

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    1. Linda: agreed on both points :D

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  4. I like the food presentation, particularly the one that uses egg shell as a container :D

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    1. Ken: yeah, that's a fun way of revamping the cocktail :)

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  5. MUST GO. WILL GO. XD

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    1. Jean: hope you enjoy Fuego! :)

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  6. Ooh, looks like a must try.

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    1. The Yum List: i think you'll like this place :)

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  7. I am back! Hehehe
    The food looks very pretty and sound good too, I want to try! :D

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    Replies
    1. CK: heheh, welcome back (again!!!) :D heheh, ya, it's conveniently near your office too :D

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  8. OMG the foie gras looks soooo soo damn good! Btw congrats on your latest collaboration.... been reading your articles on eatdrink.my :)

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    1. Baby Sumo: yeah, it's been a long time since we had a memorable new foie gras dish like this in kl :) and thanks. hopefully the collaboration will be a fruitful and positive one :)

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  9. Oh flavours over inventiveness for me so I shall visit ohla first. But I'm attracted to the rm125 for 500g of beef. Too bad abt the texture

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    1. Rebecca: ya, maybe you could try one of the better cuts of beef here. there's a 400-gram aussie wagyu grade 5 sirloin, cured, with black olive and truffle sauce for RM250++ :)

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  10. Hi..would love to celebrate my bday there. should I make reservations?
    Genyuzhen@yahoo.com

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    1. Yuzhen: i think it'd be good to make reservations, to be safe

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  11. I would like to bring my boyfriend to come here and try.. any special food can introduce like steak or dessert? I want give him a big suprise ...I not so familiar here because it was me n my bf first time come...my frien introduce me to come this place to try those food ...because she say it will be a romantic place for me to celebrate my boyfriend birthday. .should I make reservation? And can u make a special birthday dessert for my bf?

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    Replies
    1. Price is not a problem. ..I just want make a happy and memorable suprise for my boyfriend...

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    2. Melissa: please call the restaurant at 03-2162-0886 , as i'm not representing the restaurant and am not associated with it. cheers, and wishing you a good birthday dinner :)

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    3. Okay thanks..but got any special food introduce?

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    4. Melissa: the dishes i tried are listed in this blog post :)

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  12. I just wanna ask..is it all the food certified as halal? all the food was so amazing but too curious to eat cause I'm a Muslim..:)

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    1. Cat: thanks for your enquiry. as far as i know, no, the food is not certified as halal, as the restaurant serves alcohol. however, the restaurant does welcome muslim customers, as no pork is served here :)

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