Subscribers of The Delicious Group's e-newsletter received intriguing information this month: Dish at Tun Razak has a new consultant chef with mighty fine credentials.
Formerly heading the kitchen at London's Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's, Steve Allen has spearheaded a fresh menu for his current KL base. Sit back & savor complimentary bread with rosemary herb butter, but save sufficient space for Allen's creations.
Eggplant fritters studded with sesame seeds & served with coriander sauce. Hits the right notes: scorching-hot, staunchly crunchy & surprisingly light.
Watermelon, feta cheese, pine nuts & balsamic vinegar. We were hardly hungry while ordering, but this amuse bouche absolutely perked up our appetites.
Barramundi ceviche with tiger prawn beignet (RM38++). Minty, citrus-marinated raw fish at its freshest & fleshiest, featuring pleasurably pure flavors.
Tuna prepared two ways _ seared & marinated _ with pickled radish & crispy quail eggs (RM42++). Allen's skills shine through constructions like this, combining components that would each taste terrific on their own but make mouthwatering magic together.
Ballotine of foie gras terrine wrapped with smoked duck ham, served with spiced pineapples & toasted brioche (RM46++). Richly creamy & remarkably flavorsome, this recipe breathes a bit of new life into liver, reminding us why we love it in the first place.
Tomato risotto with black olive tapenade & zucchini (RM34++). Allen's goals include making Dish known for more than merely its steak specialties. With this, he succeeds spectacularly _ there's no need to have beef here in order to have a marvelous meal.
Passion fruit marshmallows & chocolate truffles.
Berry brilliance: strawberry mousse, granita & jelly, paired with olive oil ice cream (RM21++). We feared this might be sour, as strawberry desserts nearly always are. But miraculously, it's gently fruity, with a natural sweetness that works well with the mild-tasting ice cream.
Dish is only thirty-two months old, but for some time now, it's seemed like a worn-out gladiator in KL's gastronomic arena. But things are changing; if word of mouth spreads, this could be a contender for the city's most revitalized restaurant.
Some might ask, is Allen actually toiling in Dish's kitchen? Perhaps not everyday, but he was there during our visit. And on a quiet evening, he'll pop by the tables for a chat with customers.
Earlier entry on Dish: August 6, 2009 (oh how the years go by).
Dish @ Dua Annexe,
Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur.