Mado Ice Cream @ Bukit Bintang

Mado might thaw the hearts of city dwellers seeking cold comfort amid the afternoon heat and others intrigued by this cafe's inimitable inventory of ice cream.

"Dondurma" is Mado's specialty _ ice cream originating from the Turkish region of Maras, made of goat's milk and "salep," a flour obtained from the tuber of mountainside orchids.

Flavors include pumpkin, fig, persimmon and pomegranate, all supposedly natural, formed with real fruits and plants. Might be an acquired taste, far less saccharine than most ice cream, with a fascinatingly chewy-sticky texture that's worth trying at least once.

Kazandibi _ caramelized milk pudding, a chilled confection of wobbliness, shouldering more Turkish ice cream. Another fun fact about the dondurma: it melts very, very slowly.

Kunefe, a hearty traditional dessert wrapped in kataifi pastry, topped with crushed pistachio, filled with mozzarella-like halloumi cheese and served with pistachio ice cream.

Handmade baklava and sarma pastries, showered with chopped walnuts and honeyed and sugared to a system-shocking extent, accompanied by ice cream slices known as "kesme," a denser version of dondurma that some recommend eating with forks and knives.

Supangle _ sponge cake layered with ultra-creamy chocolate mousse and ice cream. Sumptuous, but must be shared; the portion isn't massive, but it's too rich for one person.

Complimentary kitchen-made lemonade at the end of the meal, gently tangy.

Service is speedy and smothered in smiles. Note though that tables are limited.

Mado Asia Cafe,

Jalan Bukit Bintang (intersection with Jalan Sultan Ismail), Kuala Lumpur.