Eat Drink KL

Friday, August 3, 2018

Smoke And Stew @ Kota Kemuning

Char siu with an American twist, courtesy of a Malaysian who’s been barbecuing meat low and slow for nearly 15 years, mainly for his family: Smoke And Stew might look like a typical kopitiam roast pork stall, but it’s singularly unique.

Founder Danny blends U.S. and Chinese perspectives to produce his take on char siu - the pork belly is smoked intermittently for up to four hours over applewood in Danny’s self-constructed drum barrel, with rose wine, salt and brown sugar for flavour.

The result is distinctive - Danny has tweaked the recipe according to what most patrons prefer; for health reasons, the meat is layered but remains relatively lean, with less sugar and relatively less caramelisation than regular char siu.

It’s also not quite as smoky as, say, Texan-style BBQ, per customers’ feedback as well - Danny uses comparatively mild applewood chunks for the smoking process, instead of hickory.

Paired with ginger-tinged rice, the char siu (RM6.50 per plate) is pleasurably tasty and tender, with real, honest flavours and textures - very capably home-barbecued meat that would be a big hit at any pot-luck party. Danny has plenty of experience in professional cooking, including at Pangkor Laut Resort, so he completely knows his stuff.

Smoked pork and beef ribs are available by advance orders. Smoke And Stew is located in a friendly neighbourhood kopitiam, where the nasi lemak and char kuey teow look very appetising too.

Smoke And Stew

Restoran Yunhai Pavilion, 8G, Jalan Anggerik Vanilla V31/V, Kota Kemuning, Shah Alam, Selangor. Open Monday-Saturday, 10am-2pm.

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Thursday, August 2, 2018

Itadori Uogashi Senryo & Marukita @ Tokyo

Food doesn't get much more decadent than the uni bowls of Tokyo's Tsukiji seafood market; check out the flagship offering of five (!!!) types of sea urchin served at Itadori Uogashi Senryo, each with intriguingly distinct dimensions of briny sweetness ...

... and a dynamite duet of sea urchin and fresh, succulent tuna, blanketing warm sushi rice at Marukita.

Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Le Food @ Subang Jaya

A soothing new sanctuary for meat-free fare, Le Food offers an ambitious selection that leaps from Malaysian to Mexican; while the cafe is currently in a soft-launch stage, its eventual menu promises everything from Nyonya-style laksa constructed with brown rice vermicelli and extra virgin coconut oil to grilled tacos stuffed with avocado, asparagus and aubergines.

Le Food is conscientious about the components of its recipes - multigrain rice and free-range eggs are a given, accompanied by organic vegetables, organic black bean sauce, organic brown sugar and organic vinegar, as well as natural, unbleached sea salt. And of course, no MSG and no artificial colouring, additives or preservatives. Real food, in other words - nourishing sustenance that remains guilt-free, meticulously crafted nonetheless to carve out a satisfying balance of flavours and textures.

For those of us who can't get enough of avocados, the sourdough toast with a creamy avocado spread and sliced portobello mushrooms is well worth ordering for RM15.90 - prices are reasonable, considering the quality of ingredients. If you need something even heartier, have the brown rice bowl blanketed with guacamole, mushrooms and a generous array of vibrantly colourful fibre, an elaborate concoction that's a solid, substantial bargain for RM19.90.

Here for brunch? Indulge in nicely executed eggs, crisp-edged and runny in the centre, pan-fried with tomato peppers (RM15.50), or turned into an omelette with a twist, stuffed with quinoa and crowned with a dollop of Greek yogurt (RM17.30).

There's no shortage of Asian specialities, from Korean roasted seaweed fried rice to Taiwanese braised veggie pots - but our attention fell on the local temptations; the lion's mane mushroom rendang is aromatically admirable, rich with surprisingly complex nuances of spices, fresh toasted coconuts, ginger and lemongrass (RM20.80), while Le Nasi Lemak is fragrantly fulfilling too, with basmati rice that bears unmistakable hallmarks of butterfly pea flowers and coconut milk, surrounded by house-made sambal, sweet potato curry, roasted walnuts, dried soy-made 'anchovies,' steamed long beans, sliced Japanese cucumber, and mushroom morsels (RM14.80). Clearly, a lot of care is poured into these, with a focused attention to detail.

Beverages maintain Le Food's healthful philosophies, with hot, wholesome blends of millet with organic cacao and agave nectar (RM12.90) and cold-pressed juices with the ABC of nutrition, apple, beetroot and carrots (RM12.90).

Le Food

Jalan SS 18/1b, SS18, 47500 Subang Jaya, Selangor.

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Menya Miyabi Hokkaido Ramen @ Sunway Pyramid West

Menya Miyabi Hokkaido Ramen upholds a culinary heritage that's as meaningful as it gets for ramen devotees.

The brand first emerged in Hokkaido two decades ago; its show-runner in Malaysia is a Japanese native who worked at Menya Miyabi Hokkaido Ramen's original outlet in the city of Ishikari. He relies largely on ingredients from his home country and ensures that his senior chefs also spend a stint in Ishikari so that they become intimately familiar with the flavours and textures of their signature recipes.

The result is a menya (noodle shop) with an admirable mission for authenticity, not merely conveyed through its cooking but also the artwork and decorative accompaniments that showcase Japanese geography and culture.

With up to eight different ramen varieties available, the menu is kept manageable but with sufficient recipes to warrant return visits.

The heart of Hokkaido ramen might be the miso broth that's rich with warming dimensions of umami; while conceived to combat the chill of Hokkaido's winters, it's a pleasurable balm for Malaysian palates too, with its soulful depth and soothing complexities.

Yaki Miso Ramen headlines the selection, made aromatic with fried soybean paste, partnering perfectly with noodles that promise a firm, satisfying bite (RM25). Alternatively, if you prefer lighter nuances, Shoyu (soy sauce) or Shio (salt) ramen would be the recommended choices.

The familiar Tonkotsu Ramen is offered too, with the tell-tale milky pork broth base that's prepared fresh daily, boiled for 14 hours for a concentration of porcine purity (RM25). Flavours here prove punchy; patrons can request extra liquid to bring the broth down to milder levels if preferred.

For fans of the robust fragrance of garlic, Menya Miyabi Hokkaido Ramen's recently introduced Burnt Garlic Ramen is glorious, with all the heat and sharpness expected from a generous heaping of crisp, golden-brown garlic - the broth, too, bears unmistakable notes of garlic (RM27).

Each bowl of ramen here is rounded out with all the essential components, be it the protein of pork belly and soft boiled eggs or the fibre of seaweed and seasoned bamboo shoots.

True to the traditions of Hokkaido ramen, further toppings of butter and corn can be added to make the meal even richer.

Beyond bowls of soupy ramen, Menya Miyabi Hokkaido Ramen offers single-plate possibilities too.

The Yaki Ramen is the best bet for folks who like their noodles fried, peppery in a manner reminiscent of chow mein, mingling with a secret sauce, creamy-smooth scrambled eggs and chashu for a fulfilling dish (RM24).

Craving carbs but considering rice instead? The Ebi Chahan features fluffy grains fried with shrimp, potent in its crustacean-fuelled dynamics of flavour (RM16).

Sides for sharing are aplenty, from potato croquettes to edamame, but the restaurant takes special pride in one of Japan's most ubiquitous treats, gyoza, dumplings stuffed here with chicken and vegetables (six pieces for RM13; 10 pieces for RM19).

All in all, Menya Miyabi Hokkaido Ramen hits the spot when the urge for classical, time-honoured Japanese dining strikes. Many thanks to the restaurant for having us here.