Eat Drink KL: Cézanne, Desa ParkCity

Tuesday, June 3, 2025

Cézanne, Desa ParkCity

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Named for Paul Cézanne, the French Post-Impressionist illustrator, Cézanne turns each course into a canvas, recasting a European culinary palette with Eastern brushstrokes.

Working in the new flagship kitchen of Qing Gallery, head chef Brendon and his skilled brigade paint meticulous portraits of flavour and form, where sauce swirls as pigment, seasoning becomes shadow, and structure makes a mark with masterful contours and contrasts.

Their choice of innumerable ingredients and composition of thoughtful techniques speak eloquently for their artistry:

Seaweed tart with tofu cream, burnt chilli pesto and century egg white

Braised abalone in pie tee shells with shiso, avocado, ginger mayo and fried kale

Brined striped jack with pickled celery, cured shiitake, wasabi stems, clarified tomato water, fig vinegar, fig leaf oil and ginger flower snow

Australian rock lobster with lobster head sauce, red bell peppers, fermented chilli and kaffir lime leaf oil

Hokkaido scallop with pear and pumpkin curry, smoked eggplant puree and pucuk manis

Soy milk and duck egg custard with maitake mushrooms, salt-baked jicama, pickled daikon, almonds and clarified caramelised onion broth

Sea bream with a sauce of sake and fish bones, cushioned with edamame, pickled green chillies and puffed rice

Buckwheat pancake with tamarind-glazed fried sweetbread

Japanese A4 wagyu beef with salted black bean butter and a sauce of oxtail, ponzu and coffee oil

Coffee-glazed dry-aged duck with a sauce of tamarind, rose oil and mandarin peel 

Yuba tartlet with yellow wine-marinated foie gras parfait and caramelised pineapple

Ulam granita with kedondong juice, dill oil and pickled guava

Roti bakar-inspired caramelised French toast with Earl Grey ice cream, kaya mousse and brown butter powder

Banana madeleine and choux puff with gula Melaka cream and pandan mochi