More than 10,000 kilometres from Manchester, Mancunian-raised Tony brings a British culinary classic to KL, serving fish and chips in collaboration with his Singaporean business partner Keith, who founded Tanjong Pagar's Lad & Dad gastropub.
Lad & Fry currently offers only one dish in Wisma Cosway - fish and chips, made with moist, meaty sea perch - with a craft beer corner Alright Provisions for Chipper pale ales to pair with the chips, gherkin tartar sauce and mushy peas.
Tony, who has lived in KL for two years and is married to a Malaysian, cultivates a casual, cheerful vibe, channelling a fuss-free greasy-spoon experience with The Police, The Smiths and The Cure playing nostalgically through lunchtime.
The signature fish and chips hit the spot, tweaking Lad & Dad's recipe for Malaysian practicalities, banishing beer from the soda batter and swapping out haddock for perch.
Everything's mint - the fish is fresh and clean-tasting; the batter is light and crackly; the chips prove fluffy, not floury; the tartar sauce is thick and tangy; the peas have a lovely, natural bite; complete with traditionally brewed Sarsons malt vinegar.
Lad & Fry hopes to serve more pub staples later this month, with pork-free bangers-and-mash and Scotch eggs up next.