Faroz Cafe, TTDI

By Aiman Azri

Outfitted in ornate opulence, Faroz Cafe strives to transport customers to a gilded place where timeless art and architecture charmingly weave their spell; it's clear that this two-storey restaurant is a labour of love - Faroz fuses the first names of its founder, Puan Sri Faridah Idris, and her husband, Tan Sri Rozali Ismail, inspired by the cuisines they cherish from home and abroad, spanning kampung cooking to steakhouse specialities.

The versatile kitchen relies on the talents of chef Shaik Rhyszard, who lives in Taman Tun Dr Ismail himself and has sharpened his skills at several of KL's most respected eateries over the past decade. He reinterprets both Asian and Western flavours with a confident flair, transforming familiar favourites into revitalised recipes.

Soto Ayam, the traditional breakfast staple, is available all day at Faroz, with a playful twist. The chicken soup is served separately in a clear teapot, kept warm by a candle, so customers can choose whether to drizzle or drench their noodles, chicken, bergedil and bean sprouts with the broth. It's a striking but suitable way of serving soto ayam; the broth conveys clean-tasting subtleties, best relished with some lime and Faroz's house-made sambal blend to punch up the flavour.

If you enjoy the classics, rest assured Faroz's repertoire is filled with everything from lempeng to lontong, nasi dagang to nasi kerabu, bubur lambok to bubur lemak.

For your fix of Sup Tulang Merah, Faroz offers hearty, carnivore-loving chunks of lamb bones in the tell-tale red gravy that's sweet with a spicy edge - the luscious marrow can be slurped up with a straw, while the meat on the bone can be relished with steamed and fried mantou buns to lap up the thick sauce. It's a family favourite for the founders' family, so they highly recommend this.

We like how the kitchen not merely promotes local dishes but makes the initiative to utilise local ingredients widely - the nasi kerabu contains budu (Kelantan's fermented anchovy sauce), the ulam and kobis bakar showcase geragau (krill from the Straits of Malacca), and even the pasta marinara highlights prawns, squid and clams from Pulau Besar.

East meets/meats West with Faroz's Lamb Rack Bakar, with the cutlets meticulously marinated in soy and garlic for Asian nuances before being seared over an open grill, resulting in a delightfully smoky char that complements the juiciness of the flesh, rounded out with roasted zucchini and mushrooms, mashed peas and potatoes, and a choice of house-made mint or pesto sauce. Inform the crew that you'd prefer this prepared medium for optimally tender results.

If you're searching for further splashes of creativity, they're peppered throughout the menu, from a Sarawak umai-inspired squid temptation to steak that promises a nod to Moroccan spices.

Many thanks to Faroz Cafe for having us.

Faroz Cafe
39, Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad 3, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur. Open 9am-9pm; closed Sundays. Tel: 03-77279068

This feature first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

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