Eat Drink KL: Brasa: Bukit Damansara's new grill & wine bar brings fire & flair to protein-powered fare

Wednesday, August 30, 2023

Brasa: Bukit Damansara's new grill & wine bar brings fire & flair to protein-powered fare

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Stepping into Bukit Damansara's Brasa is a portal into a rustic, brick-lined cavern with a timeless elegance, where flames on a gorgeous grill crackle over steaks and seafood, where bottles of wine from the world's best vineyards beckon to be popped open.

The latest venue by Malaysia's Cinnamon Group extends its culinary command on this street, joining Aliyaa and The Sticky Wicket as delicious neighbourhood destinations, perfect for a relaxing evening or an intimate get-together with our favourite people. These are restaurants for all reasons, all seasons.

Chef Diego Reali, a familiar face from Brasa's sibling eateries such as the city centre's Natalina, has forged a menu that balances sophistication and simplicity. Its fare is comforting and confident, fuss-free and fulfilling.

Brasa's grill is a protein powerhouse, serving up everything from spiced chicken with smashed kipfler potatoes to sultry lamb rack with smoked eggplant puree, Atlantic cod to Boston lobster. Small plates abound for sharing, spanning crispy-fried sardines to charred wagyu bone marrow, baked brie to burnt butter scallops.

If you love restaurant kitchens fuelled by fire and flair, bookmark Brasa to bring the heat and heartiness to your next feast.

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Brasa occupies a two-floor setting that's spacious but cosy, welcoming with warm tones. 

The street level is where patrons can catch all the culinary action, with the fireplace-like grill blazing in the background, true to the restaurant's name (Brasa is Spanish for embers).

The atmospheric ambiance evokes a vintage steakhouse, with specials scrawled on a chalkboard and shelves of bottles to browse on the walls. Dim lighting for dinner sets the mood for an easy-going affair, ideal for lingering over long conversations.

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Upstairs evokes a secret, sumptuous sanctuary, with beautiful booths and private rooms - great for group gatherings, getting away from the bustle for a night of wining and dining.

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Fresh-baked focaccia, fluffy and fragrant, come paired with clarified smoked and truffle butters, smooth and sumptuous, to kick off the Brasa experience.

Brasa's wine list is comprehensive, covering the Americas and Europe to South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. You'll even find a Rouge from Syria by the bottle, while wines by the glass include Italian, French, Portuguese, Argentinian and Chilean choices.

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For a snack to whet the appetite, Brasa's Crispy Sago (RM48) is a triumph of texture and taste - squid ink-hued sago crackers, crunchy to the bite, enlivened by a luscious, vibrantly colourful topping of house-cured salmon gravlax, creamy avocado mash, caviar, ikura and creme fraiche in perfect, pleasurable proportions.

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Craving meat from the very beginning? The Moroccan Lamb Meatballs (RM55) are marvellous, channelling the heady spices of Marrakesh in rich, robust meatballs, soaked in capsicum sauce that hints of cumin and fennel, soothed with earthy, nutty hummus. Addictive to the final spoonful.

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Brasa's grill proves capably versatile, effortlessly elevating everything it touches.

Spanish octopus (RM148) yields a smooth, thick tenderness - firm and fleshy, not mushy - kissed with the bliss of a captivating char, aromatic with saffron-scented mash, fruity and sweet with Italian-cultivated Taggiasca olives and roasted confit cherry tomatoes.

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Naturally, steak is a spectacular headliner at Brasa, with Australian wagyu ribeyes, striploins and tomahawks vying for the limelight, bolstered by sides like grilled asparagus, charred banana shallots or wasabi mash.

The Wagyu Ribeye (RM102 per 100g, served with truffle mash and rocket salad) is a sacrament of sheer succulence, expertly executed for that caramelised crust that conceals pink, lust-worthy juiciness. 

Mustard enthusiasts, take note: Brasa also offers a trio of mustards of different punchiness to pair with your steak - choose your preference for an extra kick or a honeyed nectarousness.

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Desserts display chef Diego's Italian heritage with contemporary chic.

The Wild Berry Panna Cotta (RM42) offers opulence in its silky vanilla cream encircled with mixed berry compote, while the Pistachio Tiramisu (RM55) puts a playful spin on traditional tiramisu, layering coffee-laced pistachio mascarpone cream for a memorable finish.

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Brasa 
No.50-G, Plaza Damansara, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur. 
Daily, 5:30pm-10:30pm. Tel: 011-5110-2857