A cosy cafe filled with books, serving wholesome fare such as soy-sauteed local tofu with mixed vegetables and cashews, burgers with paprika-tinged red bean patties, and saffron-infused coffee-almond ice cream, Illiterati is one of the most popular haunts for visitors to India's Dharamshala, with terrific views of the cedar forests on the fringes of the Himalayas.