This first-floor wine bar that launched this past year on Flinders Lane, upstairs from chef Andrew McConnell's immensely successful Cumulus Inc, proved to be a hive of activity on one recent Wednesday evening, buzzing with Melburnians seeking a delicious dinner to drive away the work-week blues.
This is the sort of venue where customers should come ravenous; even though the menu isn't exceptionally extensive, everything from the peppered butcher's steak with pomme frites ($32) to the pappardelle with mushrooms & pecorino ($24) sounds tempting & seems to surface in mighty portions (once we're past the olives with pickles, that is).
Cumulus Up's signature treat is its duck waffle, with confit duck meat & skin mixed with buckwheat flour for the batter, topped with foie gras parfait & prune puree. Playfully pleasurable, arrestingly addictive.
When visiting the state of Victoria, consume oysters as often as possible _ advice that we were happy to accept here.
Double-smoked 'large black' ham ($14), marvellous for mindless munching.
Gnocchi that's fluffy with ricotta cheese, pine nuts, oregano & citrus-infused burnt butter, a terrifically tasty recipe.
Spiced lamb ribs ($4.50 each), tender & flavoursome meat with a creamy smoked tomato sauce.
Roast chicken isn't an afterthought here, hearty comfort food with grilled leeks, peas & cos lettuce ($32 for half a chicken) ...
... well-partnered with sides of potatoes (irreproachably prepared) & a basic salad made more enjoyable with hard-boiled eggs.
Desserts are simple but satisfying: Can't-fail profiteroles with chocolate sauce & house-made vanilla ice cream, strawberry Eton mess & rum baba with creme patissiere.
And of course, lots of wine & cocktails are available to keep the crowd very happy till very late.
Cumulus Up
45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, Australia
45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, Australia
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