Eat Drink KL: Jibby & Co @ Empire Subang

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Jibby & Co @ Empire Subang

Jibby & Co opened outside Empire Shopping Gallery this past week, instantly becoming one of Subang's most ravishing restaurants. But this venue hopes to succeed on more than superficial charm, with a menu that's more ambitious than many might anticipate.

Watch this two-storey space register strongly on the F&B Richter scale for suburban cafe-watchers; it looks like the result of an earth-shaking budget, with every square metre blanketed in a stylish sheen.

The restaurant's name will raise eyebrows too, though its explanation is far from scandalous: 'Jibby' is the nickname of this outlet's co-founder Najib Abdul Rahman, who is also the executive chef for the Serai chain of eateries.

Sabah-born Najib spent a decade working in Melbourne; the melting-pot culinary influence of the Australian city is showcased in Jibby & Co brunch offerings like baked eggs (some might prefer them runnier) with house-made chicken sausages, lemon zest, Neapolitan tomato sauce & North African ras el hanout spices (RM28 before taxes).

Our best bet: Sunny-side-up eggs with creamy yolks over corned beef, potatoes, confit cherry tomatoes, strained yoghurt & thick toast (RM27). Pretty addictive, with the labneh providing pleasantly tangy nuances.

Jibby's poached eggs show a tell-tale reliance on vinegar in their preparation, but that's fair enough for a busy kitchen. They're partnered with hash browns, salmon roe, smoked salmon, corn, zucchini & hollandaise sauce (RM25); it sounds like a recipe that could be elaborately enjoyable, but it proved not as memorably punchy as expected (the corn was more effective than the salmon roe in boosting both taste & texture).

 The brunch menu is available 8:30am-4pm daily, so even late risers can make it in time for a densely filling French toast, topped with creme patisserie, berries, crushed pistachios & maple glaze (RM22).

Greek yoghurt with raspberry coulis & crispy honey cornflakes (RM24). Jibby's prices are evidence of inescapable inflation. 

Sumatran single-origin coffee can be ordered (RM12, aeropress or pour-over). Not bad; no complaints about how this tastes.

We like the Banoffee Pie shake; it's creamy without being too thick, flavoursome but not cloying, smooth & not harshly icy.

 Come during off-peak hours to snatch a seat on one of the two couches, the most comfortable & coveted section here.

 We'll explore the lunch & dinner selection in a future entry; there are both hits & misses here, so there's space for fine-tuning, but ultimately, Jibby & Co has real potential. There will be buzz.

 Jibby & Co is open daily through midnight, with the kitchen closing at 10:30pm. It's at the outdoor parking lot near CIMB Bank, on the Tangs end of the mall's frontage.

Jibby & Co
GK11, Empire Shopping Gallery, Subang Jaya
Tel: 03-5613-7070

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Also, take a look at the latest edition of Eat Drink KL: 100 Favourites, completely redesigned with a revamped look, featuring 100 recommended restaurants for April-June 2014, including more than 30 new entries for this quarter. This eBook is available to read or download at this link: http://eatdrinkkl.publ.com/Eat-Drink-KL-100-Favourites-Apr-Jun-2014 (The link expires June 30, 2014; see blog entries after that date for new link).