Babi Kuah Hitam is billed as ‘an Indian boy from Klang cooking bak kut teh in Bangsar’ - founder Logan grew up living near Klang's Teluk Pulai Bak Kut Teh, so he’s no stranger to the soulfulness of BKT.
At this new stall in Lucky Garden’s Chun Heong Kopitiam, Logan ladles out his own thoughtful take on meat bone tea, soothingly mellow in its balance of sweetness and bitterness.
Pork belly, soft bones and baby back ribs come in a delicately aromatic broth, boiled for more than four hours over a slow fire, blending the smooth gelatinousness of soft bones with cinnamon, Chinese wine, liquorice, peppercorn, dark soy sauce and other herbs and spices.
The strain is slurp-worthy to the last spoonful, wholesome with tender meat and a mix of homegrown Klang chillies (RM15 per serving; add RM1 for rice with shallots and lard).
A satisfying breakfast, free of MSG and mass-market stocks - Logan currently prepares up to 55 bowls of BKT, Tuesday to Sunday, sometimes selling out by 12:30pm.
Fun fact: Many might recognise Logan as also the show-runner of Wurst restaurant, right across the road from this kopitiam.