Market Hall

Markethall: Round Three. Earlier entries: Feb. 11 & Feb. 14.

Calamari coated in sesame seed pastella. Delving deeper into Markethall's menu means discovering delicious culinary twists. Instead of the ordinary deep-fried calamari that other outlets offer, the version here is based on an Italian recipe with a thinner, far less greasy batter, for a healthier feel.

Sliced topside beef, glazed in salsa verde. Alas, not everything is a hit. This roast beef came out tender, but the accompanying egg was cold, with a hard-boiled yolk instead of a runny one. Maybe it was intended to be that way, but it wasn't very yummy.

Slow-roasted mushroom risotto with truffle oil & herbs. Markethall's chef was formerly from Delucca, so the Italian dishes here deserve consideration. This risotto was aromatic and well-executed, though not exactly mind-blowing.

Salmon tagliatelle tossed in vodka, citrus zest & mascarpone cream sauce. A simple, straightforward recipe, tasty and hearty enough to satisfy.

T-bone steak, Florentine-style, with garlic, extra virgin olive oil & rosemary dressing. Markethall's beef comes from livestock cultivated in Gemas, which produces a halal range of "Gold Meat." Our steak was medium-rare as requested, but the meat could've been juicier and more flavorful.

The paella was praiseworthy though. Fragrant rice, brimming with fat clams & succulent chicken. Seemed a bit watery at first, but it was still absolutely addictive.

Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie IGT (Italy), featuring the flavors of grapefruit & lemon.

Detox Juices: Dr Grey Cold Buster (garlic, parsley, cucumber, celery, carrots) & Meditation Rejuvenation (pineapple, maple syrup, mint leaves, ginger, spring water).

Market Hall,

Pavilion, Kuala Lumpur.

Antipodean

After conquering Jakarta, Antipodean has marched into Malaysia and invaded Bangsar, expanding the evil empire of coffee connoisseurs that's terrorizing the Klang Valley.

We were unexpectedly taken captive by this cafe on a recent evening, lured into its clutches by temptations including a chunky pumpkin-&-corn fritter _ subtly sweet but insidiously moreish, coupled with crisp, savory bacon.

Antipodean's food menu draws inspiration from recipes spanning Southeast Asia and Australia. Portions are filling, prices are fair and the ingredients taste fresh _ all of which apply to this beetroot, carrot & mixed nut salad with balsamic vinegar.

The Burmese shredded chicken salad is well worth trying, though its tart, almost acidic attribute might be an acquired taste. Most of the salads cost around 15 ringgit.

Salmon fishcake. Many of these items seem cooked-to-order, so the waiting time can be lengthy. But the results should pacify the fussiest of eaters, especially health-conscious ones who want less salt, oil & artificial flavoring in their meals.

Thai chicken satay. Business hours are brilliant: 8am through 10pm, ensuring that Antipodean will soon become a popular hangout for leisurely outings.

Breakfast dishes are available all day long, even till closing time. The banana & honey "porridge" is simple but satisfying _ warm comfort food underpinned by gooey oatmeal.

Desserts on the counter include this caramelized apple-&-raisin cake, as well as other treats such as flourless chocolate cakes and lemon meringue pies.

Of course, many customers will come for the coffee _ mainly Arabica blends from Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi and Bali, produced by Merdeka Coffee, an Indonesian-based franchise that runs cafes in Jakarta, Sydney and Auckland.

We're not crazy for caffeine, but the invigorating brews here hit the spot. Too bad booze isn't sold for now, except for a limited selection of beer.

Latte & doppio.

Babycino & mochachino.

Mango juice & ristretto.

Long black. Enough to keep us perky after we escaped for a midnight screening of 'True Grit' (my favorite current film, one of this year's few Oscar contenders that moved me to tears).

Service is stellar and the setting still sparkles like new.

Antipodean Cafe,

20, Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar.

Tel: 03-2282-0411

Sommelier

A cozy watering hole where the decibel levels remain within a comfortable range. This place was once a terrific hideout, ideal for a secret rendezvous, but it's more crowded nowadays.

Food isn't the main attraction, but despite its nondescript appearance, the homemade chicken liver pate was surprisingly flawless _ as creamy and fresh-tasting as can be expected.

We used lots of bread to mop up the addictive brown sauce that blanketed these brandy-seasoned beef balls. Alas, the sauce proved tastier than the chewy meat.

Skip the lamb chops. Too tough and gamy to recommend.

Sommelier's wine selection is satisfactory. We enjoyed the reasonably priced Trewa Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile) & Villa Chiara Pinot Grigio (Italy).

Sommelier Bistro,

Plaza Damas,

Jalan Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur.

Wellcome

Chinese New Year might be over, but the memories still live on. Right?

Anyhow, with the exception of this mediocre yee sang, the other dishes that we ordered at this decade-old restaurant will probably remain available all year round.

We had mixed feelings about this Four Seasons platter. The abalone slices and marinated baby octopus were OK (though unexceptional), but the spring rolls were abysmally bland, while the pork ribs were soaked in a sickeningly sweet sauce.

Suckling pig. A massive portion that even 10 people might be hard-pressed to finish. Our complaint: while the skin was crisp, it wasn't brittle enough.

Steamed river patin in soy sauce. Won't win any awards, but it seemed fairly fresh.

Mixed veggies with bean curd. Most Chinese diners would have eaten this more than a hundred times in their lifetimes, for better or worse.

Fake shark fin soup. Starchy and less flavorsome than expected.

Yam fried rice. Not bad, but we were too stuffed to dig into this dense mound of carbs.

Pan-fried pancakes. Piping-hot and pretty addictive. Not too greasy, fortunately.

Longan in chilled soybean milk. Tasted very much like we imagined it would.

Wellcome,

Jalan PJS 8/5, Sunway Mentari.

L'Ambassade d'Auvergne

France, Part IX: We had one of our favorite Parisian meals at this tavern-like outlet, where the servings come in belt-busting proportions and the food is fork-lickin' good.

L'Ambassade offers traditional recipes from the rural French province of Auvergne, one of Europe's least populated regions.

Pork is the menu's cornerstone; naturally, pork terrine accompanies the complimentary bread.

A gargantuan bowl of lentils with bacon. Deceptively simple, sumptuously rich; what made it magnificent was everything they put into this so-called "salad": goose & pork fat, shallots & mustard (for a pungent punch).

The ham from Auvergne was as satisfying as Iberico ham. No subdued flavors here.

Not for the squeamish: sliced veal head & brain with tarragon. Greasy, cholesterol-laden fare, but shockingly addictive, thanks to its melt-in-the-mouth texture.

Wild woodland mushroom cassolette. Earthy but oily.

Most customers order the "aligot," a puree of potatoes, cheese & garlic blended and stretched at the table. Comfort food that goes beyond mashed potatoes _ smooth, thick and sticky.

We fell into a carbohydrate coma after consuming this, but it was worth it. Served with a meaty country sausage that was slightly too coarse for our liking.

Sugary dessert that looked like bread but tasted like cake.

Saint Pourcain (2008).

And with that, we wrap up our French series. Au revoir, Paree!

L'Ambassade d'Auvergne,

Paris.