W Deutsche Gaststaette, Kota Damansara

Hamburg-born chef Lothar Becht harnesses half a century of culinary experience to head the Klang Valley's newest German kitchen, with a distinctive menu that dives into specialities seldom seen in Malaysia, from herring salad to pork head cheese and free-range roast goose.

Fish for herring - W Deutsche Gaststaette's brine-preserved young herring rolls are our favourite recipe here, smooth and delicately flaky with mild, subtle flavours, enlivened by a tender beetroot stuffing, rounded out with potato pearls and fresh dill, served in a contemporary presentation of Germany's 'housewife style' with sour cream sauce (RM62).

Pretzels ease the wait for a salad from the North Sea island of Buesum, showcasing herring on golden spoons, served in a creamy-crisp mix of capers, gherkins, onions and apples (RM28).

True to German traditions, there's plenty of protein - fleshy roast goose leg with glazed chestnuts, bread dumpling and braised cabbage and apples (RM98), savoury beef rolls layered with bacon, mustard and carrots (RM58) and house-made schweinskopfsülze, chilled jellied pork head, cheeks and feet, a gelatinous classic, with fried potatoes and tartar sauce (RM32).

Desserts showcase a lovable lick of liquor - chef Lothar takes pride in his personal creation of strawberries mixed by the table with pepper and Grand Marnier, complete with strawberry gelato (RM40), but even more addictive is a glass filled with chocolate gelato, dried prunes and beer for a sweetly satisfying end to the evening (RM35).

W Deutsche Gaststaette

B8, Signature Park, 1-13, Jalan Teknologi 2/1A, Kota Damansara, 47810 Petaling Jaya, Selangor.