Sushi Kyo, Dutamas

Sushi Kyo might be the most low-profile of KL's new flurry of omakase restaurants, but that means it's easily the calmest. A Tokyo-origin chef commands the counter - note that he speaks no English and is not the most communicative or patient chef, so the friendly manager handles translations and explanations, working hard to ensure a pleasant evening.

The most comprehensive menu is titled Sakura (RM680); by now, aficionados know what to expect, with seasonal specialities like shirako seizing the spotlight. True to the inventiveness of omakase establishments, Sushi Kyo puts its own stamp on certain creations, like a tangy citrus twist to amadai sashimi and a sansho pepper tingle to tempura. You'll find plenty of fish onboard, both raw and cooked.

Sushi enthusiasts will be ecstatic to learn that 12 courses of sushi are served, so come here hungry. Our favourite is the Hokkaido crab gunkan, decadently loaded with both flesh and roe, though we'll never say no to engawa, uni or otoro.

Sushi Kyo

LG2-1, Residensi Duta Kiara, 7, Jln Duta Hartamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-64134133

This post first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com