ATAS Modern Malaysian Eatery, The RuMa Hotel & Residences

ATAS strives to elevate and enliven its cutting-edge cooking with uplifting, unmistakably Malaysian inflections. Churros come laced with subtle hints of smoked eel in the dough, but what makes this preparation memorable are the locally inspired accompaniments, ranging from grated coconut to egg-free whipped coconut jam (RM30); cured ocean trout is synergised with a sambal dressing, fresh ulam leaves, and puffed tapioca crackers that evoke crunchy salmon skin, the lusciousness of the trout buoyantly balanced with an understated sense of spice and raw, herbaceous invigoration (RM58).

ATAS' penchant for poultry results in a rewarding experience for customers, with charcoal oven-cooked main courses like dry-aged duck breast on a bed of Sarawakian Bario highland rice turned nearly glutinous, rounded out with full-flavoured liver parfait and nuances of roselle (RM118), and corn-fed chicken with sawtooth coriander, fried onions, and tapioca boba balls that supply a striking textural contrast to the meat (RM110).

Portions prove modest, so it's worth ordering a couple of side dishes - foraged fiddlehead ferns with dark soy and crispy shallots (RM28) and a fragrant sesame-spiked jasmine rice salad with chicken skin and spring onions (RM28) work perfectly for the Southeast Asian palate, a testament to the talents of ATAS' Vancouver-born executive chef Tyson Gee and his team.

ATAS Modern Malaysian Eatery
The RuMa Hotel & Residences, Jalan Kia Peng, 50450 Kuala Lumpur. 
Main a la carte menu available for lunch & dinner. Hotel tel: +603-2778-0888

This feature first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

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