Fans of Peranakan fare might find some pleasant surprises at Nyonya Kabin, which brings together classic, cherished recipes from both Malacca and Penang.
For those of us who were raised on the unmistakable flavours of fermented krill, the cincalok chicken (RM16.90) might be a trip down memory lane.
Any restaurant that takes the effort to make a painstaking dish like perut ikan is worth bookmarking - the pickled fish stomach stew (RM17.90) here hits the mark, with a deep, well-defined tang, nuanced with betel leaves and ginger flowers, completely comforting with rice.
Order the jiu hoo char (RM16.90) too - the stir-fried jicama conveys rich umami notes, courtesy of cuttlefish; it might have been a festival dish in decades of yore, but it's nice to have it on an anytime-basis in this modern age.
Wash down with iced nutmeg juice (RM4), not often seen outside Penang.
The menu is extensive, with everything from inchi kabin (Nyonya fried chicken) to ayam pongteh, lor bak to kiam chai duck soup to omelette with chai poh. A taste of tradition.
Nyonya Kabin
4, Jalan Anggerik Vanilla Y/31Y, Kota Kemuning, Shah Alam, Selangor. Daily, 11am-10pm.
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