Bridging the gap between kopitiam classics & modern comfort fare, Li puts a millennial-pleasing spin on 20th-century staples like roti babi, kaya toast & bubur ikan bilis, fuelling a Malaysian soul-food revitalisation by a committed new generation of kitchen talents. If the people behind Li & their philosophies foreshadow the fate of local cooking, the future might be bright.
Li is founded by two Lims & a Lee - chef Heng Kit (formerly of The Kitchen Table), barista Yee Rui (previously at VCR), & front-of-house stalwart Ziyan - all of whom first met at Melbourne's William Angliss hospitality & culinary arts institute. Their training supplies a solid foundation for skilful baking, curing, roasting, pickling & saucing - start with Li's house-made sourdough bread, turned into crunchy-fried, irresistibly greasy-bottomed open sandwiches layered with tender minced pork, sesame seeds, sriracha mayo & cilantro (RM9.50; not our granddaddy's Yut Kee roti babi, but distinctively memorable & enjoyable enough to be a Li signature) & textured toasts coupled with can't-fail soft eggs (RM7.50) or kaya butter (RM5.50).
The anchovy congee with egg, fish sauce caramel & scallion sauce (RM9.50) is thick, warming & feels wholly nourishing, with earthy-green nuances, but if ikan bilis isn't your thing, it won't be the chief lure. The roast chicken leg with potatoes & pickles (RM21) is juicy & capably whipped up, though it targets customers who're seeking the safest, most inoffensive choice possible.
For dessert, lychees with meringue, lime granita & coconut milk (RM15.50) work best as a chilled refreshment if you relish lychees. Blondies sourced from Jaslyn Cakes are also available. Iced beverages shine a spotlight on lemon, lemongrass & kumquats; coffee is offered, & while wine is not, bottles won't be banished for corkage-payers. Service is cheery & obliging.
47 Jalan SS 22/23, Damansara Jaya, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Kitchen opens Tuesday-Sunday for lunch & dinner.
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