Desa Sri Hartamas' new Vagabond is an intriguing kitchen, run by Malaysian culinary talents who met while working in Melbourne's restaurants, such as Flinders Lane’s Tian38.
Their menu is partly inspired by their backpacking travels, particularly in Southeast Asia, with highlights that include modern takes on classic Myanmarese recipes.
One of Vagabond's founders is from Sarawak, shedding light on the Umai Pie Tee, blending Melanau and Peranakan traditions in crackly pastry shells stuffed with citrus-marinated scallop and squid, layered with umai-flavoured gel and tobiko for a scrumptious seafood starter.
Vagabond's reinterpretations of Burmese classics make for a comforting meal.
Try the Laphet Toke, a deconstruction of Myanmar's pickled tea leaf salad, a vibrant medley of julienne, sliced and shredded vegetables, herbs and fried garlic chips, complete with fermented tea leaf paste, evoking a to-be-tossed cross between yee sang and lei cha.
Steamy sounds of wok cooking from the kitchen precede the Clam Fried Rice, awash in asari, striped with Vagabond's earthy version of Burmese balachaung, turned into a crisp condiment of dehydrated king oyster mushrooms, punching up the taste and texture of this addictive rice.
Vagabond KL
4, Jalan 28/70a, Desa Sri Hartamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur.