A herb-struck cocktail, nodding to nasi kerabu, laced with ikan bilis-infused liquor? Or one with Parmesan-permeated bourbon, topped with torched banana, paying playful homage to pisang cheese?
The Riff District is Bangsar's distinctive new den, tended by thinkers and tasters in Telawi, including founding force John, who traded his profession in litigation for libations, crafting this space from scratch.
Both the bar and kitchen impressively blend imagination with intention: The Riff District takes familiar flavours on a spin, striking creative chords by remixing everything from Chinese sweet-sour guluyuk in the glass to Malay masak lemak and Peranakan pie tee on the plate.
The Nasi Kerabu cocktail harmonises the vegetal grassiness of rhum agricole with kaduk, kaffir lime and turmeric leaves, butterfly pea flower, lemongrass and ginger. The ideal dish distilled into a drink, minus rice but memorably nice with a zesty zen.
Pisang Cheese imbues the sweetness and smokiness of bourbon and Scotch whiskies with subtly savoury Parmesan, decadently deepened with banana liqueur and chocolate bitters, soothingly suffusing street-snack swagger with speakeasy sophistication.
The bar reinterprets classics too, like the Tom Collins, Manhattan and daiquiri.
Try the tropical take on a Martini of mischief: The Papatini winks with a whiff of papaya in its gin and kaffir lime in vermouth, bittersweet with Aperol, bright in allure.
Meals blaze a culture-conscious path beyond basic bar nibbles.
The Vegetable Medley is a vibrant crop of Brussels sprouts, four-angled beans, zucchini and pickled white fungus, recalling but redefining Four Heavenly Kings stir-fries.
There's much to explore: Handmade pitas and pasta; rarities like French-inflected aligot; and ambitious affairs of broccoli-jalapeno espuma with akaebi ceviche and coconut jelly.
Effort is poured into fun, funky, flirty enticements: Cheese is smoked with bunga kantan; butter buttressed by laksa spices; duck dry-aged for 10 days, juiced up with whiskey-washed jus.
For the coda, find cold comfort in kaya mousse with a goji berry core, coupled with Earl Grey ice cream.